Authentic local cuisine right here — the energy of Keelung people lives on Xiaosan Road.

To visitors, Keelung is all about Miaokou. But for old-timers, Xiaosan Road is where the real food scene thrives.

Driving into Keelung always feels like entering a curtain of rain — outsiders are easy to spot, usually the ones without umbrellas or raincoats. The damp, chilly sea breeze makes you crave a steaming bowl of soup, and on Xiaosan Road, you’ll always find the hottest, most comforting fare just when you need it.

Located near the harbor and train station, Xiaosan Road is lined with commission agencies and customs brokers. Wherever ships dock, entertainment follows. The former “teahouses” used to cluster here too, and the vibrant, colorful heyday of Keelung’s bustling port life is etched into the winding alleys and eateries around this street. Unlike the delicate snacks of Tainan, what Keelung’s migrants seek isn’t refinement — but full-bodied vigor: simple, hearty fare perfect for pairing with drinks.

We spent the day eating from morning till night with writer Zheng Shuncong, author of “The Scent of Keelung.” Practically every eatery we visited has been around for at least 30 years, and many don’t even bother with signs. Amid the rising steam, finding a seat feels like striking gold. The noodles served might not be loaded with toppings, the bean sprouts and scallions are simple and white, the meat filling a bit salty, and the broth plain and unadorned — only the sharp bite of shredded ginger warms your stomach. But love it or not, locals pull up stools without hesitation. This is the most authentic taste of the Rainy Capital.

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