Get to know Tainan through “Linpai Department Store”! This historic Japanese building has been revitalized through cultural creativity.

Text and photos byGui Xiaosun

It’s my second visit to 【Linpai Department Store】, and the stories it holds have changed completely compared to before. Different from its initial exhibition-focused format and the days when it was just a five-story building, it now has new stories and a fresh look. It welcomes a baptism of new life for our generation—carrying a profile and spirit that are both seasoned and subtly sweet, inviting you to explore further.

The following content is excerpted from Wikipedia.　

Linpai Department Store (Japanese: 林百货店, Rin Tenpdō; also called 林デパート), originally established in 1932, is located in Tainan, Taiwan. It was the first department store in southern Taiwan to feature modern facilities such as elevators and escalators, earning it the nickname “Taiwan’s Harrods.”

During the Japanese colonial period: As Tainan underwent urban renewal and the opening of the Tainan Canal, areas along the “Taishōchō-dōri” (today’s Zhongshan Road) and “Suehirochō-dōri” (today’s Zhongzheng Road), which stretched from Tainan Station through Meiji Park to the Tainan Canal, grew increasingly important. By 1927, a group called the “Suehirochō Tenement and Housing Speed-up Association,” composed of aspiring shop owners, decided to build a continuous strip of shop-houses in Suehirochō. Construction began in 1931 under the design of architect Umezawa Shigeru and was completed the following year, becoming Tainan’s first comprehensively planned urban district. The area soon flourished as a commercial hub and earned the nickname “Taiwan’s Ginza.”

Linpai Department Store was the largest structure in this development. Opened on December 5, 1932, at 2-chōme, Suehirochō, Tainan City (now the intersection of Zhongyi and Zhongzheng Roads) by Lin Fangyi, a native of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Japan, the owner unfortunately passed away just five days later due to acute cholecystitis at the age of 49. After his death, the store was continued by his wife, Lin Nianzi, who was 38 years old at the time.

Republic of China era: After World War II, Linpai Department Store underwent repairs and was subsequently repurposed over the years for various uses, including as the Taiwan Salt Administration Headquarters, an air force unit, and a police substation. During the 1950s, the first to third floors were used by the Taiwan Salt Administration Headquarters, the fourth floor housed the Provincial Grain Bureau, and the fifth and sixth floors were occupied by the Air Force Broadcasting Station. The building continued to change hands, serving as the Salt Police Corps Headquarters, the 3rd Battalion of the Protection Police Corps, a grain bureau archives warehouse, and military dependents' housing, among other uses. After the 3rd Battalion of the Protection Police Corps moved to Taipei, the building fell into long-term disuse. On January 7, 2010, renovation work on Linpai Department Store began, with completion scheduled for January 2013. Following the renovation, the Tainan Cultural Affairs Bureau announced in late June 2013 that the store would reopen to the public on June 30, 2013.

Right across from the five-story 【Linpai Department Store】 is another historic building—the Land Bank. Since some point in time, the two have stood facing each other, witnessing decades pass by—each a companion to the other, having shared many eras and days.

I always feel their mutual gaze is a kind of habit, even a classic, making me look at both of them every time I pass by.

On this Saturday afternoon, under a managed entry system forming an S-shaped queue, the sight startled me at first glance. But all those S-shaped lines snaking through 【Linpai Department Store】 meant only about a 20-minute wait. I think this control system makes sense because 【Linpai Department Store】 isn’t very large—proper regulation allows visitors to enjoy a more comfortable and spacious experience once inside.

While waiting in line, I spotted a child. Honestly, whether it’s nature or nurture, I’ve always loved kids since I was little. Only recently did I realize not everyone shares that affection, regardless of gender.

I can’t help but glance at children even when walking down the street, and as a result, I often notice kids staring back at me too. XD A friend told me they might have thought they saw “a strange person” (luckily no one cried). Watching the interactions between children and their parents felt warm to me—I really love capturing these preserved moments, so genuine and deeply touching.

About 20 minutes later, we finally entered the long-awaited 【Linpai Department Store】. Because the first floor is where each new batch of visitors is held, and since it mostly hosts food and souvenir shops, the store’s commemorative stamp is actually located on the first floor too. XD

We skipped the first floor and started exploring from the second floor upwards. As soon as we reached the second floor, the atmosphere of the space made us want to stay put. Maybe one day there will be more small-scale cultural and creative department stores, and perhaps you won’t find an overwhelming array of diverse products or clothing, but here, I instantly knew I wanted to spend more time lingering.

As for the size of the whole space, you certainly can’t describe it as a typical department store. But without rigid partitions between counters, walking through it gives you a sense of open, airy flow.

The variety of cultural and creative products, regardless of category, give space to each other and also illuminate one another. If there were just one design product here, it might seem unremarkable, but when these individual designs become “a collective,” you’ll naturally find yourself engrossed in reading each piece of artwork.

Many works are no longer what you’d expect—like a pen holder or a file rack, what appears before your eyes is a pure white old building, delicate and gentle in detail.

A canvas tote bag seems to tell the story of Tainan’s traditional craftsmanship, each item making you feel it’s not just a souvenir, but a love for Tainan itself.

Walking through the second-floor space, treasures are everywhere—even the simplicity in the air is something to cherish. Not to mention, have you ever stepped on the mosaic stone floors of a “department store” like this?

Nowadays, when I go to a department store, it’s usually purpose-driven—for a restaurant, a movie, or a specific item I want to buy. Once I get that, I might leave quickly. But here, I find myself wanting to look a little longer—so many things make their way into my mind and heart.

Just a few postcards, yet the stories illustrated on them carry their own charm. Even the unassuming magnets depict the old houses of Tainan in exquisite detail. Delicacy is found everywhere, not loud but deeply touching.

People move through the space—some in a hurry, others like us staying on the second floor for nearly an hour, browsing, chatting, and sharing. Perhaps in the rhythm of daily life, you come to realize which people might be your lifelong partners.

Looking at this wooden door, I instantly wanted to buy it. Maybe next time I come, I’ll take it home.

The captivating color and weathered texture—it’s truly a miniature version of something real. For a moment, I wondered what it could be used for. Wouldn’t it be amazing as an iPhone case? XD

A few small shops are tucked away in quiet corners. The shop owners are as relaxed as passersby. Perhaps it’s the ambiance here that makes everyone feel refined. Voices are lowered, footsteps are quieter—you feel as if you’ve drifted back to the 1940s or 50s, holding simple vintage items, chatting with neighbors in front of the store.

On the third floor, several shops sell Taiwanese-designed clothing and more. What caught my eye most was 【Mushroom】, located near the staircase. 【Mushroom】 has intrigued me since a few years ago. At first, I noticed their notebooks, then their bags, and now their clothes—all exuding a consistent sense of simple comfort.

The fourth floor is half café space, with the rest featuring stationery and antique-like cultural and creative goods.

If you're tired from exploring, take a break here—enjoy some coffee, have a chat, and soak in the retro vibe inside 【Lamay Department Store】. With sunlight streaming through the windows and beautiful chandeliers casting a warm glow from above, it's simply romantic!

Head up to the fifth floor, where you'll find an antique clock by the stairs and potted plants on the chairs—the atmosphere of old stories is truly unique to 【Lamay Department Store】!

The fifth floor houses 【COCORICO】 and 【Dazhoushao】. We stopped by 【COCORICO】 for some desserts and drinks. I’ll write a separate post about this part later ^~^ because this shop is just so adorable, with a style that fits perfectly here. Its retro ambiance made us want to step in and sit down right away.

The rooftop, accessible from the fifth floor, is iconic to 【Lamay Department Store】 and was once the highest point in the area. Now, the fluttering 【Lamay】 sign represents the store’s renewal, writing a new story on the land of Tainan. I love lingering here a while longer—whether it’s the scarred walls that witnessed World War II, or the red floor tiles and elegant parapets, each element uniquely defines this place.

They also sell the famous 【Chun Yizhi】—a Taiwanese-made fruit popsicle that I personally love. You should definitely give it a try if you get the chance. It’s now widely available across many places, letting you enjoy the true taste of fresh fruit ^~^

That day, I ended up taking photos for at least five different groups of people—unknowingly becoming the go-to photographer for the spot. There were couples, families, everyone. It felt amazing!

This time, I came partly just for this place. Even though it wasn’t my first visit, I was even more excited than the first time. So many people have told me about the local Taiwanese cultural creativity here, which totally captivated this “fake hipster.” And you? Have you been to 【Lamay Department Store】? No matter whether there’s 【visitor control】, I highly recommend getting to know Tainan through 【Lamay Department Store】!

【Lamay Department Store】
Address: No. 63, Section 2, Zhongyi Road, West Central District, Tainan City (at the intersection of Zhongyi Road and Zhongzheng Road; parking: Confucius Temple Parking Lot on Zhongyi Road)

Author of this article:［Enjoy life without boredom. Gui Xiaosun］