Night-only special: Open-air stir-fry spot in front of Tainan’s temple like a banquet spread

Text and photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy

Back when I hadn’t left Tainan yet, I actually didn’t know how interesting the streets and alleys here could be. A casual turn down one might lead you to a super popular or long-standing shop. After all, many alleyways are so small you’d never notice them. The two most interesting shops I found in the alleys were Xiao Haozhou Satay Hotpot and this place, Songzaijiao, because back then my life in Tainan was too homebody-ish—I’d only eat out around Yidong Road and Dongning Road. It wasn’t until a friend brought me to this area in Central and West Districts that I followed along and realized there were such bustling spots hidden in small alleys. And it’s not just in Tainan—there are seafood stir-fry stalls all over Taiwan—but 【Songzaijiao Seafood BBQ】 is right in front of a temple, with a big square in front where rows of round tables are set up. Once night falls and the lights come on, it’s as lively as a nightly temple fair.

I actually don’t know much about Songzaijiao’s history, because from what I remember from my visit ten years ago, it’s always been this crowded. But this Songzaijiao sets up seating in the big square in front of two temples—one is the Five Plague Temple, and the other is the Zonggan Temple.

It’s said that there used to be a big pine tree planted at the temple entrance, and Songzaijiao originally set up its stall in this spot, hence the name, and it’s been operating here ever since.

But the pine tree is gone now, though there is a big banyan tree in the square, and Songzaijiao has long since moved into the adjacent storefront. It opens at 5:30 PM, and on weekdays you can actually start ordering and getting food by 5 PM, but it’s still early then and not very crowded. Coming here is all about enjoying the freedom of eating stir-fry outdoors—no need to worry about noise levels or dining etiquette. Once evening comes and it’s seven or eight-tenths full, it’s really as lively as a banquet feast, with laughter all around.

The menu selection is incredibly diverse, ranging from Japanese sashimi and stir-fried dishes to grilled items—it’s so varied it’s hard to choose. But the prices are actually not expensive, with many dishes just over a hundred dollars and only a few that are pricier, but there are really a lot of categories. And since every time I come I end up ordering roughly the same dishes, there are actually quite a few I’ve never even tried.

【Shuangquan Black Tea / 20 NTD per cup】
I don’t know since when, but whenever I eat at Songzaijiao, I’ve gotten into the habit of having Shuangquan to really bring out the flavor, so I’ll often grab a bottle or a cup to go. Some people might find it a bit astringent or not to their taste, but I actually quite like the flavor. But now I only buy it when I’m coming to Songzaijiao.

【Salmon Nigiri / 200 NTD for 6 pcs / Weekend-only】
This is a very Taiwanese-style Japanese nigiri sushi, but each piece is pretty generously sized.

The fish’s freshness is pretty good, but with the soy sauce paste and pickled ginger, you basically just need a touch of wasabi to make it perfect.

The fish slices are cut a bit thick, giving a really solid texture in the mouth. The vinegar rice is okay, though—not expensive, but nigiri isn’t available on weekdays.

【Bitter Melon with Salted Egg / 120 NTD】
The bitter melon is crispy—it’s the green kind, so the bitterness isn’t too strong. The salted egg ratio could probably be a bit higher, and it’s not stir-fried too wet. The portion is decent, but the slightly salty, crumbly texture of the salted egg is a bit weaker than it could be.

【Roast Chicken Leg / 260 NTD for 2 pcs + Roast Chicken Wings / 120 NTD】
At first I thought this huge plate was way too much, but it turned out my friend ordered two portions, and it was only a little over two hundred NTD. The skin is slightly crispy, though a few pieces are a bit over-charred and have a bitter taste. The meat is naturally tender and chewy, though a few pieces are a bit too tough.

But I thought it was just roast chicken legs, and there were also some chicken wings. No need for dipping sauce—the taste is still pretty good. Not bad at all, Up. The price isn’t high and the portion is generous enough to give it a try.

【Egg-Baked Squid / Price varies】
This one might not be cheap, since the squid portion is pretty big, but I wasn’t the one who paid, so I don’t know the exact price. I just know that a lot of netizens who’ve eaten here highly recommend this dish. I’ve had it a few times before and thought it was pretty good, but it’s best eaten hot.

The thick outer layer is made with egg batter mixed with sea urchin, all golden-yellow and wrapping around fresh squid. When hot, it’s bursting with umami, and the aroma of the egg yolk and sea urchin combined with the Q-textured, firm squid is really quite tasty. It’s not as great when it cools down.

【Stir-Fried Water Spinach / 100 NTD】
Besides garlic and preserved olives, it also has chili added, so it’s actually pretty heavy on the flavors.

【Stir-Fried Spaghetti / 60 NTD】
I picked the wrong angle for the photo, so this stir-fried spaghetti looks a bit too plain, though it’s not exactly amazing either.

There’s also shredded pork and cabbage stir-fried in, and the spaghetti is cooked just right—not soggy at all. Tainan-style stir-fried spaghetti is really generally pretty good, and the seasoning is, of course, our Tainan-style sweet flavor. One portion is enough for two people to share.

【Japanese Fried Tofu / 60 NTD】
This one’s really cheap, because the tofu is a big piece. The outside isn’t exactly crispy, but it’s kind of like it’s fried with an egg-skin coating. Inside it’s egg tofu, with seaweed and a sweet sauce—it’s not bad at all.

【Miso-Glazed Grilled Pork / NT$200】
This is also considered one of their signature dishes, but if you don’t like the sweet flavors typical of Tainan cuisine, you probably won’t enjoy this either, as it uses a sweet Taiwanese-style miso. However, the portion is quite generous — no need to order double, as you’ll still get a big plate. It comes with a tangy lemon juice dipping sauce. The pork isn’t too fatty, so it’s not overly greasy, and the meat has just the right amount of chewiness. Each bite is infused with the sweet miso flavor, and it comes with Taiwanese pickles on the side to wrap the meat in.

【Boiled Shrimp in Saltwater / NT$160】
This is a very Taiwanese-style shrimp dish, probably the kind you’d find at a banquet or family gathering. The shrimp are plump, fresh, and have thick, firm, and springy meat. The sweetness is mild, but I always find myself wanting to order it.

【Stir-Fried Clams / NT$200】
This is also a pretty bold-flavored dish — they use a lot of basil, chili, and garlic. The flavors are strong, but the freshness is excellent. The color just looks a bit different from the previous dishes because we started eating in the evening and by the time it got dark, I forgot to adjust the camera settings. But it was really tasty.

We thought it wouldn’t be too crowded on a weekday, and when we arrived around 5 PM, there were no other customers — just our table. But as it got darker, more and more people came. By 7 PM, when we were full and ready to leave, the place was completely packed, and the whole square was bustling with energy. It reminded me of the night market seafood stalls in Kinmen I visited recently — the livelier it gets, the better the vibe. In total, I think the four of us spent about NT$400 each, but in reality, we probably overordered and ended up overly full. Considering the portions and flavors, though, it was still enjoyable. They’re currently closed only on rainy days. If you’re visiting Tainan with a group of friends, it’s worth checking out, because with too few people, you really can’t order much.

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◎ Shop Introduction: [Songzaijiao Seafood BBQ Stir-Fry Shuangquan Black Tea | Zhongzheng Rd., West-Central District]
◎ Address: Lane 131, Zhongzheng Rd., West-Central District, Tainan City (in front of Zonggan Temple)
◎ Phone: 06--2226632
◎ Business Hours: 5:30 PM – 12:00 AM
◎ Tip: Expect to wait for a table on holidays; weekdays are recommended
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