Generous Ingredients, Unforgiving Attitude – Kinmen Shouji Cantonese Congee You’ll Eat Despite the Grumpiness

Text & Photos /MIKA

Kinmen’s most iconic Cantonese congee spot is Shouji. The local saying goes, “Go to Shouji and you’ll get attitude,” making the place practically synonymous with grumpiness. Honestly, my first visit was no exception—I definitely sensed the owner’s brusque demeanor. He’s a stubborn man who insists on cooking everything fresh to order. With limited seating in the shop and impatient tourists unwilling to wait, he simply tells you it’ll be an hour’s wait. If you’re not up for it, he’ll just suggest you go elsewhere, and he’s even known to bicker directly with customers XD. He’s quite the character, but once you understand his commitment to quality, his mindset isn’t hard to grasp—though his attitude could definitely use some work. That said, he’s actually very polite and friendly to locals.

Shouji is located next to the Dongmen Market on Julu Road. While you’re here, why not take a stroll through the local market too?

There’s also an old-school charcoal-grilled egg roll here—an almost lost art. These traditionally made egg rolls are rarely seen in Taiwan these days.

Back in the day, this is how egg rolls were made—the aroma of charcoal-grilled egg rolls is simply unmatched by machine-made ones.
(Thanks toOrange Dogfor the photo.)

The grilled egg rolls are wonderfully fragrant, thin, and crispy. I once left a batch out for two or three days, and they were still crisp and delicious. Highly recommended.
(Thanks toOrange Dogfor the photo.)

Right next to the charcoal-grilled egg rolls is the Chastity Archway. Turn right after passing it, and you’ll find Shouji.
(Thanks toOrange Dogfor the photo.)

There’s also a rather charming female lion statue at the Chastity Archway.

We headed straight for Shouji as soon as we landed in Kinmen. The moment we arrived, the boss coolly informed us, “An hour’s wait.” I said, “Every time I come, no matter how busy or not it is, you always say an hour XD.” Well, if we wanted to eat it, waiting was the only option—so we waited. And we ended up waiting over an hour, no kidding.

There aren’t many seats in the shop, so most locals opt for takeaway. That’s why the boss is almost always busy handling delivery orders—and it’s clear he’s super friendly with the locals. Split personality much, huh XD?

In reality, there are only two stoves cooking the congee. Each pot makes at most two bowls, and each bowl takes around fourteen minutes. The base is probably pre-cooked, but the ingredients are made fresh per order—which is why you have to wait.

The boss is actually a softie underneath that gruff exterior. With a local guiding us, he became much friendlier and even chatted with us. Apparently, he got tired of impatient tourists and their bad attitudes, so over time, he just started telling everyone it’s a one-hour wait. If you can’t wait, go somewhere else. Plus, there really isn’t much seating, so waiting over an hour isn’t unusual. When things get hectic, he really doesn’t have time to deal with customer moods. He’s also been complained about by tourists, which added up and made it even harder for him to be nice. He’d rather be upfront than have you waste your time and leave angry. He knows his reputation precedes him, but... stubborn as he is, he figures that’s just who he is XD.

Youtiao (Chinese fried dough sticks) – 8 NTD / 1 stick
Breakfast in Kinmen isn’t complete without congee and youtiao. The youtiao here are really tasty—chewy and elastic with no greasy aftertaste. They pair perfectly with congee.

Cantonese Congee – 70 NTD / 1 bowl
Kinmen’s Cantonese congee is technically called: 粥糜 (zhou mi)
Also known as “rice-less congee.” The rice grains are cooked down until they virtually disappear, leaving something that looks solid but is essentially formless—hence “mash” or “mash-like congee.” It’s a unique local specialty.

So why do people keep coming back to Shouji despite the grumpiness? Because the fillings in their congee are genuinely more generous, fresher, and tastier. I’ve had Cantonese congee at four or five other places in Kinmen over two visits, but I still think Shouji’s is the best—richer and more flavorful.

Kinmen-style Cantonese congee includes ingredients like egg drop, minced celery, pork liver, fresh meatballs, fried lizardfish, and meat strips… The meatballs are super fresh, tender, salty, and flavorful. The pork liver is also very fresh and thick-cut.

Stir an egg into the Guangdong-style congee, and with every scoop you’ll get a generous mix of toppings. Though it’s essentially rice porridge, it’s surprisingly filling. Aside from the abundance of ingredients, the portion size is also huge.

I find the fried mudskipper a bit disappointing—it was a bit cold inside, probably made with frozen mudskipper. Then the fried tofu puffs turned mushy and fell apart after soaking in the congee, which I didn’t really like. Other than that, everything else was super delicious.

The authentic Kinmen way of eating it is paired with youtiao (Chinese fried dough sticks). Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the youtiao soaks up the essence of the congee. Moist, chewy, with a bouncy texture and the savory flavor of the rice porridge all in one bite—it’s really tasty!

Kinmen congee has a historical background. During the military outpost era, rice was a luxury, so it was carefully cooked into congee. Even rice-less congee helped people get by, making it a distinctive Kinmen delicacy and a local breakfast staple.

Coming to Kinmen means having to try the local breakfast—Kinmen-style Guangdong congee and youtiao. I highly recommend Shou Ji. If you can overlook the boss’s stern face and gruff tone, and don’t mind waiting, I truly believe this place is an absolute must-eat in Kinmen!

Shou Ji Guangdong Congee in Kinmen
Phone: 082-327878
Address: No. 50, Section 1, Julu Road, Kinmen County, Kinmen City
Business Hours: Starts at 6:00 AM, sells out by around noon

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MIKA’s Travel & Food Diary