A Superb Collection of Breakfast Spots in Tainan That’ll Fuel Your Morning!

Text & Photos byMaji Xiaotu

At 5 a.m., just finishing an all-night karaoke session at Cashbox and dragging my tired body home, I thought—what better time to swing by Xiaolin Road for a bowl of “Liuqian Beef Soup.” Those who haven’t tried it often hesitate upon seeing the place, looking surprised. But once that rich, savory beef broth hits their lips, they end up finishing the whole bowl and then holding it out to ask the owner for a refill.

Made with a sweet and savory broth simmered from beef bones, plus a generous serving of tender beef slices—all for just NT$120. You can get a refill on the soup, add a bowl of plain rice, and if you’re really hungry, go for the stir-fried beef. Don’t be surprised—this is how Tainan locals enjoy a luxurious and hearty breakfast.

Liuqian Beef Soup, located on Xiaolin Road near Dayong Street, opens at 5 a.m. daily and only sells two heads of fresh beef per day, selling out fast. After 8 a.m., getting a bowl is a matter of luck—if you rush over excitedly, you might just find the stall closed. Once, I rushed to take colleagues there at 8, ordered two bowls, and just as we sat down, the owner told the next customer, “We’re out…” I couldn’t help but cheer—I’d somehow managed to get the very last bowl. What luck!

Beef soup is more common in Tainan than in other cities, but the beef must be the freshest, processed early in the morning. That natural umami simply can’t be compared to frozen beef. Aside from Liuqian, other beloved spots include A’cun Beef Soup in Yongle Market and Bao’an Street, A’Hui Beef Soup in Yongle Market, and Shijingjiu Beef Soup on Minzu Road—all open around 3 a.m. Locals know that to get the best food, you have to wake up early. By 8 or 9 a.m., it’s already too late. Sorry, try again tomorrow.

I loved the “Fish Ball Liu – A’Chuan Shrimp Roe Fish Balls” from the alley between Zhongshan Road and Youth Road where I grew up, or the “Yongji Shrimp Roe Fish Balls” opened by Fish Ball Liu’s eldest son on Kaishan Road. Freshly made in the early morning, these crispy and refreshing shrimp roe fish balls, along with fish skin and belly soup coated in fish paste, are incredibly fresh with zero fishy smell. The broth is wonderfully sweet, paired with fragrant meat sauce rice, marinated eggs, and braised pork intestines. Locals know you have to try the dry youtiao (fried dough stick) drizzled with meat sauce.

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Having shrimp roe fish soup with meat sauce rice for breakfast is a common sight in Tainan. The truly delicious and popular spots usually open at 6 a.m. and are often sold out by 11 a.m.—so timing is key. Some operate from midnight until dawn. Since every household in Fucheng (Tainan’s old name) has its own secret recipe and braising style for meat sauce, everyone has their favorite. It depends on what time you choose to visit which one. After moving to Taipei, every time I returned to Tainan craving that long-missed shrimp roe fish soup, I had to sacrifice sleep and wake up early. Later, Fish Ball Liu’s eldest daughter opened “Third Generation Shrimp Roe Fish Balls” on Fumian Road near the South Gate intersection, which serves lunch and dinner—so I could sleep in and still satisfy my cravings.

Since childhood, my breakfast memories have been a colorful mix of Chinese, Western, and Japanese influences—truly a feast. My dad would drive my sister and me to a hearty breakfast before school. Every day, the food cart passing by our doorstep offered tube rice cakes, Fu’Sheng Hao bowl rice from Yongle Market, Ah Zuo’s soy milk, your favorite beef noodle soup, your dad’s special stewed pork rice, your uncle’s famous rice vermicelli, the always-busy breakfast spot near the train station, the oyster omelet place near the old market, the breakfast shop near the elementary school that served your favorite fried chicken cutlet… so many surprisingly delicious dishes that you can only find in Fucheng during the early morning. Just from breakfast, you can see how rich the food culture of this ancient capital truly is.

I remember more than twenty years ago, on weekends during middle school, I loved meeting up with my best friends in front of Alice Royal Western Restaurant across from Zhongshan Junior High School to enjoy a lovely European-style breakfast in a great atmosphere. Later, it became a habit to meet up for Western breakfasts at hotels, cafes, and Western restaurants. It’s clear how early Tainan embraced the trend of Western buffet breakfasts and brunches. Now, even on a weekday morning, you’ll have to queue up at ORO Coffee.

Friends or colleagues from northern Taiwan are always amazed by the breakfasts I buy in Tainan. The portions are huge—not just meat sauce rice and congee, but also zongzi (sticky rice dumplings), dry noodles, or even charcoal-grilled pork chop sandwiches and American-style big burgers. Each one is practically lunch or dinner-sized. And getting them isn’t a given—you have to wake up early, queue up, and they’re not cheap, often costing nearly or even over NT$100 per meal, which is completely different from the impression northerners have of southern Taiwan being inexpensive.

Breakfast in Tainan doesn’t have to be eaten in the morning. On Fumian Road, Dou Nai Zong, famous for its guabao (steamed buns with pork), opens at 10 p.m. and serves until the next morning. Next to the yakitori grill on Section 3 of Minzu Road, there’s an amazing pork chop sandwich and egg pancake shop that’s open from 7 p.m. to around 1 or 2 a.m. For those craving congee and shrimp roe fish, “Yuejin Salty Porridge” on Minzu Road and Ximen Roundabout is open 24 hours. Aside from their signature salty porridge, their shrimp rice is also very popular. In Fucheng, you’ll never go hungry—even in the middle of the night. If you show up at these places around 1 or 2 a.m., the crowds will make you forget that it’s the middle of the night.

Tainan’s breakfast scene is incredibly diverse. Thanks to the ancient capital’s long history, it has developed a unique breakfast culture that draws on the best of global influences. There’s no fixed style here—whether Chinese, Western, or Japanese, you’ll find it all. It’s a breakfast paradise with something for everyone, giving you a full day’s worth of energy. This isn’t just the bold, hearty spirit of southern Taiwan—it’s also a reflection of Tainan people’s innate love for food. With gratitude and respect for every dish, even the most ordinary breakfast becomes a treasured culinary moment in Tainan. If you ever get the chance to visit, don’t sleep in—wake up early and embark on a delicious and fulfilling breakfast adventure in Tainan!

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