A feast for the eyes and taste buds: The must-order rose sashimi at Yitian Izakaya

Text & photos byOrange Dog Loves Candy

Because I occasionally live in different cities and have a habit of staying up late, I always find some favorite late-night snack stalls in every place. Actually, it’s getting harder to get a table at popular late-night eateries that stay open later these days. I don’t know why there are so many people like me who stay up all night, but this 【Tokyo Yitian Izakaya】 on Haitian Road in Tainan is one of those places I occasionally crave and am willing to queue up for when I’m back home. The original owner was from Kanto and opened this shop under his own name before transferring the management rights to his apprentice. In the past, you could still see him cooking at the counter, but I didn’t notice if he’s still around this time. It was probably my first visit here eight or nine years ago—the business was already booming back then, but you could still get a seat without a reservation if you waited a bit. Now, if you don’t book ahead on holidays, you might as well just leave. If you’re lucky, you might snag a spot at their second branch. In these tough economic times, restaurants often close down one after another, so Tokyo Yitian is quite a rare and popular spot. (Though I’ve noticed recently that they seem to have dropped the “Tokyo” from their sign?)

Finding this izakaya isn’t hard because Haitian Road comes alive at night with bustling chat and the crowds around grilled and stir-fried food stalls. Tokyo Yitian is located at the intersection of Haitian Road, Xialin Road, and Yongfu Road—you can’t miss the place with the crowd.

It’s like this almost all year round, but in winter, it feels even more crowded because they also serve hot pot dishes. Not only are there more seats under the eaves outside, but there’s also a second seating area in the alley next door. Most old-school Tainan eateries are like this—they don’t branch out but focus on perfecting one spot. Of course, you can avoid the queue by making a reservation in advance, which I’d recommend, otherwise you’ll really wait a long time on holidays. I won’t say too much about the environment—the atmosphere here is quite nice. Because the place is busy, it’s lively, and you don’t have to worry about disturbing others while chatting since the whole restaurant is buzzing with energy. It’s actually pretty relaxing. Aside from the great flavors, another reason so many people love it is the affordable prices.

From grilled dishes and sashimi to fried foods and seasonal hot pots, there’s pretty much something for everyone who craves all kinds of late-night meals. They even have blowfish dishes now (a new seasonal item?). I started with a simple try of fried blowfish—honestly, over the years, my usual orders haven’t changed much; there are just a few dishes I always love.

【Seaweed Rose Sashimi / 220 TWD】
This is definitely a signature must-order dish here. Whether visually or in taste, it’s the kind of dish that makes you fall in love after one bite. The center features sea bream sashimi first marinated in kelp, then arranged on the plate with seaweed and lettuce, and finally shaped into a rose with the fish slices.

As it warms to room temperature, the fish slices slightly bloom open. Paired with a touch of seaweed and wasabi, the crispness of the fish and the freshness of the seaweed, along with the satisfying chewiness of its modest thickness, make this a must-order every time I come to Yitian—it’s been like that since the first time I tried it years ago.

【Assorted Sushi / 9 pieces / 150 TWD】
This one, wow, is really cheap. When I’m hungry, I usually start with an order of this to fill up halfway. This time, I kept thinking I’d order the signature shrimp tempura sushi but totally forgot. Still, this set is great value and not bad at all.

【Grilled Hokkaido Crucian Carp / 380 TWD】
This is another must-order every time I come. Actually, I’d say I order this fish at any izakaya I visit. But after trying it at so many places, Yitian’s version is still the best—generous portions and delicious. Seeing such a big whole fish served is already exciting. The tender, thick flesh has a bit of chew and a sweet umami flavor, with some fatty richness from the fish. There are still a few bones, and different parts of the fish offer varying textures, with some areas having a slight charred aroma. It’s a great dish to enjoy while chatting.

【Fried Pufferfish / 150 TWD】
This is my first time trying pufferfish in Taiwan. Last time I was in Osaka, there was a pufferfish specialty shop right next to my hotel, but I didn’t have time to try it due to the price. I never expected to find it at this familiar spot in Tainan.

But I tried the fried pufferfish meat first. It doesn’t have any particularly strong smell, and the texture is soft yet chewy and delicate. Since I’ve never had it in Japan, I can’t compare it to the authentic taste, but for me today, it was more about novelty than pure deliciousness.

【Soy-Glazed Chicken Thigh / 150 TWD】
Large boneless thigh meat already cut into chunks, sprinkled with shichimi spice, with an enticing aroma from the glossy oil on the surface.

The meat is very tender, and the skin adds another layer of richness with its fat. I also really like this dish, and the roasting level is just right—the outside isn’t burnt or bitter.

【Crispy Chicken Cartilage / 150 TWD】
Golden crispy chicken cartilage, crunchy and dry without being greasy, with a faint sweetness on the outer coating.

【Pork and Potato / 130 TWD】
A very Japanese home-style dish and one of my favorites—sweet and springy pork slices paired with soft, fluffy potato chunks. It’s quite authentically Japanese in flavor. The simmered ?箬 (taro?) that’s absorbed the sauce is also delicious.

【Charcoal-Grilled Boneless Wagyu Short Rib / 320 TWD】
No need to say much about the “must-order” part XD. The short ribs grilled to about six or seven tenths done have a tender red interior, with a glossy surface.

The sauce brushed on has a slight sweetness, but one bite releases the burst of juicy beef flavor—tender, rich, and almost intoxicatingly aromatic.

【Stir-Fried Udon / 100 TWD】
A simple classic must-order noodle dish—Q-textured udon noodles paired with a sweet-savory sauce, topped with some crispy tempura bits and red ginger. Delicious.

【Buzi Water Lily / NT$100】
Although it's a vegetable dish, this one isn’t always available when you visit — sometimes it sells out quickly on busy holidays. The portion is actually quite generous, with a savory flavor and a bit of its natural crunch. It’s delicious with shredded pork and broken beans.

【Grilled Rice Ball / NT$60】
A small, thick triangular rice ball with sesame seeds stuck to the surface. After grilling, the outer layer has a toasty and slightly crispy texture.

Inside is seasoned grilled salmon, which adds saltiness. Without the filling, the grilled rice ball itself would be rather dry, but that also means the rice has a nice chewy texture.

These days there are a lot of late-night izakayas, but it’s rare to find one that’s both uniquely flavorful and reasonably priced. This Tokyo Masuda (or has it been renamed just Masuda now?) has managed to stay popular all these years while maintaining consistent quality — no wonder it still has loyal long-time customers. Maybe it’s worth considering next time you’re in the mood for a late-night snack. Although I’ve been coming here for years, I’ve never tried any of the other new dishes — maybe I’ll try something different on my next visit.

◎ Shop Introduction: [Tokyo Masuda Izakaya - Japanese Home Cooking & Late-Night Bites │ Central District]
◎ Address: No. 10, Section 1, Hai’an Road, West Central District, Tainan City
◎ Phone: 06-2267711
◎ Business Hours: 4:30 PM – 1:00 AM
◎ Consumption Tip: It is highly recommended to make a reservation by phone in advance
 

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