The bone-in meat sausage in the French brunch has a savory aroma and a satisfyingly firm, crispy texture.

Text and photos by /Orange Dog Loves Candy

Old houses and mansions that were once overlooked—who would have thought they could one day shake off the dust of time and don a new look for the modern era? But isn’t retro just about those old things we once discarded, only to find ourselves longing for them again? Near the National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts in Taichung, a new old-house café called 【Zebra Walking】 has recently opened. Its name is quite fun, but what caught my attention more were its brunch photos. Even though I’m not particularly a fan of brunch (to me, a classic brunch isn’t just a few thin slices of toast and a salad plate—it’s got to be hearty, fatty pork rice!!), its surprisingly early opening hours—starting at 9 AM—piqued my curiosity, and I decided to check it out.

This is a forty-year-old house, though it used to be an English language school, judging by its appearance. Otherwise, most of its neighbors are still residential buildings. Before it opened, the low picket fence at the entrance and the spacious front courtyard gave it a classic old-house vibe.

There are Vespa motorcycles, wooden tables and chairs, distressed or whitewashed walls, and so on... But even with the same props, the spatial arrangement gives off a different vibe. What surprised me was how they preserved a relaxed feel in the courtyard without overcrowding it with old decor. Then, stepping through the slightly Americana-style transparent glass door, the interior renovation creates a very likable atmosphere. Since it had just opened, there weren’t many people at 9 AM, but everywhere you looked, there was a subtle blend of old and new.

Even the collision between aged woodwork and cold, hard metal adds character. The distressed walls open up the visual space, allowing light and sightlines to extend into every corner of the room. The number of tables and chairs is just right—not too many, not too few. In terms of spatial arrangement and furniture choices, there’s an industrial ruggedness mixed with a touch of loft living. Especially noteworthy is the suspended sliding door in the restroom, a trendy feature these days that allows for nearly silent entry.

Heading upstairs, the first thing you see is the exposed ceiling and two aged pine beams. The space carries a faint new-build scent, with only sunlight streaming through the windows, playing with shadows among the tables, chairs, walls, and pillars. This is probably the kind of everyday atmosphere you can only experience in a newly opened shop. I think if it’s not too crowded, sitting here and zoning out could be quite enjoyable.

In addition to coffee, they also serve brunch, burgers, pasta, and risotto. Brunch is available earliest, while the other items are served only after 11:30 AM. For an old-house café, their menu is surprisingly diverse.

It’s not just the thoughtful spatial design and decor—you can also tell they’re not just selling the charm of the old house. As for the prices, they’re not exactly cheap, but they’re not outrageous either, and still quite reasonable.

【Italian Wrap Brunch / 180 TWD】
Contents: Smoked chicken Italian wrap + fried bacon + sautéed mushrooms + scrambled eggs + seasonal fruit + salad. Compared to the neighboring café’s recently lavish brunch, Zebra’s version is simpler, but the presentation on the delicate porcelain plates strikes just the right balance—not too much, not too little, just perfect.

The star, the Italian wrap, is actually quite tasty, though not overly complex. The slightly elastic, moderately thick wrap is filled with lettuce and smoked chicken. The sauce on the chicken is sweet and tangy, making it very appetizing, and the chicken itself is tender.

The sautéed mushrooms are simple and refreshing, though they’re just lightly blanched. The bacon is a bit over-fried but aromatic, and the scrambled eggs are smooth but a bit too salty. Overall, it’s simple and visually appealing, but if you’re looking for something filling, it might fall a little short. Still, the main components are solid.

【French Morning Brunch / 180 TWD】
Contents: 3 slices of French toast + bone-in sausage + salad + seasonal fruit + sautéed mushrooms + sunny-side-up egg. The French toast is the classic traditional style, though it’s not as fragrant as I expected—the egg flavor is a bit muted.

But the bone-in sausage is a pleasant surprise. Its saltiness and aroma are very appealing, and it has a firm, crispy bite. As for the sunny-side-up egg, well, it’s a breakfast classic—you can’t go wrong with it, and it makes everything taste better when dipped in the yolk. Between the two, this French-style brunch scores higher on my satisfaction meter, and its color scheme is much more eye-catching.

【Orange Wine Latte / 130 TWD】 (Get 40 TWD off when ordering brunch)
I was torn between Baileys and orange wine, but in the end, I went with the orange wine. However, the cup it came in felt a bit underwhelming. It’s actually a nice-looking cup, but I was expecting something with more of an old-world vibe. That said, the taste completely overturned my expectations. Beneath the silky milk foam, as the heat carried it to my tongue, I tasted the rich bitterness of the coffee intertwined with the deep, intoxicating aroma of orange wine, leaving behind a captivating mature flavor. A really great latte.

【Royal York Classic Black Tea / 100 TWD】 (Get 40 TWD off when ordering brunch)
It’s said to be mild and not astringent—a pretty good iced tea. It’s also served in a larger cup compared to the coffee.

Some old-house cafés or renovated mansions only have the form but lack soul. The soul I’m looking for isn’t just about the decor and layout. After all, in the end, you still have to focus on the essence of the food and drinks, not just dress up an empty shell in vintage clothing. At least at Zebra Walking, I could feel the effort put into the food. Though the portions are indeed small, in the area around the museum, aside from the many international restaurants on Green Park Road, these kinds of cultural old-house cafés are starting to appear (like the nearby, somewhat famous Niu Bi Guan Zi...). Interested folks should come check it out when you have time.

◎ Shop Introduction: [Zebra Walking Café | Wuchie 1st St., West District]
◎ Address: No. 5, Wuchie 1st St., West District, Taichung City (near Green Park Road by the Museum of Fine Arts)
◎ Phone: 04-23780515
◎ Business Hours: 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM
◎ Note: Brunch available from 9:00 AM; other items from 11:30 AM

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