Officially certified "Headless Troops" ghost stories in Matsu    Greet the senior soldiers in the tunnels first

▲ Officer's dormitory inside Anton Tunnel.

By Xiao Shi

There are many ghost stories in the military, and when it comes to officially recognized ones, you can't miss Matsu's "Headless Troops." During the standoff between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait, tragic incidents often occurred where so-called water ghosts landed on the outlying islands. On dark and windy nights, it wasn’t uncommon for an entire squad or platoon to be beheaded by enemy forces. Nearly every soldier stationed on the outlying islands has heard the tales—or even claims to have “seen”—the senior soldiers.

In those tense war years, soldiers standing guard at midnight would often return to their barracks to find scenes of gore: comrades with severed throats or ears sliced off. There’s an officially recognized local legend about this. Nearby residents frequently heard the sound of troops marching in unison in the early hours of the morning. When some curious folks went to check, they discovered that the troops had been "taken" by water ghosts. The company commander of Nanshan, wracked with guilt for leading his headless troops, refused to leave—even after endless incantations and prayers failed to stop the midnight marching sounds, leaving residents terrified. It wasn’t until Chiang Kai-shek himself arrived on the scene and gave the headless troops an order: "Troops, return to your rest!" that the coastal nights finally returned to calm.

The wartime history adds an air of mystery to the outlying islands. For instance, Beihai Tunnel is also rife with eerie legends. Locals say that many elders forbid children and pregnant women from entering Matsu’s tunnels at night. Or take Anton Tunnel, where there’s a strikingly lifelike statue of a senior soldier—if you want to take a photo with him, you must inform him verbally in advance to avoid attracting misfortune. Whether true or not, it’s wise to pay attention to local taboos and stay safe during travels around the seventh lunar month.