A must-try yudofu (tofu hot pot) in Kyoto – enjoy the pure taste of tofu in a simple kelp broth

Photos & Text /Happy Cloud

The power of ultimate simplicity – tofu.

Perhaps it’s because Kyoto Prefecture is rich in local produce and blessed with excellent water that such a simple yet ultimate delicacy exists!! Sometimes, simplicity is a form of power and also a skill; there are various types of tofu in Kyoto, but "yudofu" is absolutely not to be missed. Kyoto City has many renowned yudofu restaurants, and while I haven’t tried many, the yudofu I had this winter at Junsei in Nanzenji was just so simple and ultimate. It’s hard to discern its subtle charm unless you savor it mindfully. Maybe it’s precisely because it’s so... simple that this unassuming yudofu comes from such a famous Kyoto spot. Travelers from around the world and locals alike won’t miss it when visiting the Nanzenji area!!

We arrived when it was already dark, which was a bit of a pity as we didn’t get to fully admire the beautiful garden. This is the nationally registered tangible cultural property, Junsei Shoin, steeped in history and stories. In addition to typical Kyoto architecture and gardens, it also grows precious medicinal herbs.
For more history and stories, interested friends can check out the origins of Junsei Shoin (there's a Chinese version too!!)

The best part of this trip was reuniting with Kyoto friends from Hong Kong, Singapore, and Korea whom I hadn’t seen in two years. Together, we experienced Kyoto in winter, explored many places in the prefecture, and before waiting for the food to arrive, we took a big group photo, toasted, and celebrated our reunion – what a rare experience!! Every toast was a moment of emotion!!

Here comes the food!! The three appetizers all looked quite delicate and refreshing, perfect for whetting the appetite, all made with fresh seasonal ingredients.

And of course, there was sashimi – something you absolutely can’t miss in Japan. Hahaha... I remember the first time I came to Japan, I wasn’t too keen on sashimi, but after more than twenty experiences, how could I miss it in Japan?? It was so fresh and delicious; plus, the fish varieties differ by season – it was just too... blissful.

There was also a seasonal vegetable stew – simply cooked to bring out the true flavors of the ingredients. These were all appetizers.

Yeah!!! Here comes the tofu – this is goma dofu (sesame tofu)!! As I recall, it has a slightly firmer, bouncier texture and a rich sesame aroma, giving off a pudding-like or jelly-like feel. Apparently, people either love it or hate it. I remember the first time I tried it, I thought regardless of whether it was tofu or not, it was a fantastic dish!!

There was also a vegetarian tempura – another must-eat in Japan. The batter, oil temperature, frying time, and even the fillings vary; though it looks simple, it requires real skill. Each piece feels like unwrapping a little gift, and it’s delicious even with just a sprinkle of salt!!

Next, in the cute wooden box was grilled tofu (dengaku). Topped with a sweet and savory miso teriyaki sauce, it tasted completely different from the grilled tofu I’ve had in Taiwan.
The texture when you bite into it is quite firm – somewhere between regular tofu and dried tofu, or maybe like slightly drier yuba tofu. It’s surprisingly delightful and intriguing!!

Finally, the server brought out dipping sauce and a wooden bucket, with a chimney inside holding charcoal fire. It was a bit like the setup for a traditional Taiwan hot pot with pickled cabbage and pork, except the serving vessel was a "wooden bucket." So interesting!! Before long, the boiling water produced steam that felt like it was steaming your face – CCC how cute!!

By the way, this is tonight’s star – "yudofu"!! In a light kelp broth, specially made tofu is simmered. It looks somewhat like the familiar block tofu. Once scooped out, you can add your preferred seasonings like the special light soy sauce, green onions, grated carrot... etc., to let the pure flavor of the tofu shine through.

I had expected it to have a texture like block tofu, but it turned out surprisingly tender – yet not as silky as silken tofu. It struck a balance between the two in tenderness, with a rich bean aroma and simple taste. So this is the legendary "yudofu"!!

It really is simple – simplicity at its most ultimate. It’s been an indispensable food in Japan’s history for hundreds of years, quietly developed over the years, relying solely on beans and water. Perhaps it’s because Kyoto’s water is just so good that such delicious tofu can be made.

At first, everyone thought it was nothing special, but as we kept chewing the tofu, we couldn’t help but keep eating piece after piece – hahaha, how magical!! We were initially worried about finishing such a large pot among the three of us, but in the end, we polished it off, leaving only the kelp broth still gently bubbling.

And finally, the rice and pickles that came afterward – hahaha.... Of course, we were too full to eat them, so we could only say SORRY to them!!

Lastly, the simple dessert was different shaped mochi, paired with tea, the perfect way to wrap up the meal and end a wonderful evening. From my experience traveling in Japan, this dinner was just right – not overly filling, yet satisfying. The perfect level of fullness helped ensure a good night’s sleep.

Friends planning to visit Nanzenji for autumn leaves or cherry blossoms, do give this local favorite a try. I just checked their website and saw they even have a "Chinese" version – hahaha, how... thoughtful. I left with the regret of missing the daytime beauty of Junsei Shoin, but next time I’ll visit during the day, savoring Kyoto’s yudofu while appreciating the charm of the garden.

Where to eat:
Nanzenji Junsei (ゆどうふの順正, JUNSEI RESTAURANT)
Website: http://www.to-fu.co.jp/
Chinese Website: http://www.to-fu.co.jp/cn/index.html
Address: Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture, Nanzenji Monzen
Phone: 75-761-2311
Business hours: 11:00～21:30
How to get there: Take the Tozai Line subway and get off at Keage Station, then walk about 5 minutes;
Or take a city bus to the “Nanzenji Eikando-mae” bus stop and walk about 10 minutes.