The counter is always packed to the brim—a sushi feast like a concert.

Text & Photos /kuni

After dining at Japanese restaurants in Taipei for so many years, one of my favorites has always been Yū Sushi. I’d heard a while back that their first branch had moved, and I’d long wanted to check it out. I made an evening reservation and once again sat in front of Chef Abula. The new location is spacious yet refined, and with its large floor-to-ceiling windows, it’s simply stunning.

(Yū Sushi new store)

(Today’s fish selection)

I rarely set a budget when I come here—usually I just let Chef Abula decide. Here’s what today’s Omakase included:

Sweet shrimp
Eggplant with red miso
Apple and burdock hand roll
Yellowtail nigiri
Octopus tentacles simmered in red beans
Squid with seven-spice powder nigiri
Grilled scallops with seaweed
Lightly seared yellowtail nigiri
Lightly seared salmon nigiri
Tuna and avocado on a nori-covered ship
Lightly seared Canadian botan shrimp nigiri
Otoro (fatty tuna) nigiri
Grilled botan shrimp head
Grilled red throat snapper
Grilled squid
Pacific saury nigiri
Yellowtail with truffle oil nigiri
Fried shrimp heads
Fried oysters with tartar sauce
Lightly seared flounder with mentaiko nigiri
Salmon roe on a nori-covered ship
Miso
Seared squid
Chestnut Pudding

As always, the counter seats are fully booked. It’s no accident that Yokusushi has been so successful—the key figure is Head Chef Abula.

(Abula)

Of all the chefs and front-of-house managers I’ve met, Abula is definitely among the sharpest I’ve ever encountered. He possesses an indescribably intense focus. Like a top-tier performer who can sense the heartbeat and emotional shifts of every audience member during a show. I remember being invited to perform at the Victoria Dinner in 2013, presenting Michelin-level dishes. That night, in order not to miss any detail, I tried my best to listen to the rhythm of the guests’ dining as I played.

You can even notice that when the musicality becomes dull or uninteresting, the clinking of cutlery from the audience becomes noticeably louder. If the performer doesn’t make immediate and appropriate adjustments in their musical handling, the audience will simply stop paying attention to you.

(Sweet Shrimp)

(Eggplant with Red Miso)

(Apple and Burdock Hand Roll)

(Yellowtail Nigiri)

Abula is just such a chef. Let me give you an example. I had just finished a piece of nigiri and went to wipe my mouth only to realize there were no napkins left. Before I could even lift my head, I heard Abula wave for the front-of-house staff to bring more. He’s the kind of chef who can simultaneously manage both the kitchen and service pace. He holds himself to extremely high standards, not allowing any detail to slip. Dining in front of him, you strongly feel that you are an important guest.

(Other chefs at the counter)

The counter experience tonight was delightful. Among the dishes, the octopus and red bean stew unexpectedly delivered a rich, velvety, and deeply savory gelatin texture. The last time I encountered such quality was over two years ago at SASA. Plus, the generous, thick cuts melted in the mouth—absolutely satisfying.

(The freshly prepared octopus looks amazing—rich and velvety gelatin, no doubt!)

(The wine pairing was decent)

● ETtoday East News Cloud reminds you: Don’t drink and drive. Don’t drive after drinking.

The nigiri selection was somewhat limited and unexciting in terms of fish choices—a known non-strength of Yoku. Although there were pieces like premium tuna belly and nicely fatty saury, over half of the offerings were grilled, which was slightly disappointing. Admittedly, the salmon belly, scallops, and fin fat were enhanced through preparation and tasted delicious. But for an Omakase meant to showcase the chef’s full talent, I had higher expectations.

(Seven-Spice Squid Nigiri)

(Grilled Scallop with Seaweed)

(Lightly Grilled Sea Perch Nigiri)

(Lightly Grilled Salmon Nigiri)

(Abula begins making tuna paste on a battleship roll)

(Chive Tuna and Avocado Battleship Roll)

(Lightly Grilled Canadian Spot Prawn Nigiri)

(Premium Tuna Belly Nigiri)

(Grilled Shrimp Head)

(Tonight’s grilled red throat fish is super fatty!)

(Grilled Squid)

(Saury Nigiri)

(Yellowtail with Truffle Oil Nigiri)

(Fried Shrimp Head)

(Fried oysters with tartar sauce)

(Signature dish at You Sushi: lightly seared halibut fin nigiri)

(Salmon roe battleship roll)

(Miso)

(Grilled squid)

(Chestnut pudding)

The total for this meal was NT$1,730. There's a noticeable slight price increase after the relocation, but the cost-performance ratio and the charm of Ah Bula still make it feel like great value. Watching You Sushi grow and continually improve over time is truly the hallmark of a fine dining establishment. Only restaurants that are willing to reflect on their shortcomings, learn from others’ strengths, and avoid complacency can hope to thrive in the long run.

You Sushi First Branch
Address: No. 201, Jinhua Street, Da’an District, Taipei City
Phone: (02)2322-5531
Hours: 12:00–14:00, 17:30–21:00 Tue–Sun

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