Filled with warmth and hospitality — a "local chicken eatery" nestled deep in the mountains of Wulai where chickens are raised on-site!

Text and photos byMi’er

There are truly many local chicken eateries in the suburbs of Taipei — even two of Mi’er’s uncles run such establishments up in the mountains. And Mi’er’s mom, who originally couldn’t cook at all, started working as a waitress carrying plates at her uncle’s chicken eatery, gradually honing her skills until she could rival even master chefs. So for quite some time during her childhood, Mi’er spent a lot of time running around these chicken eateries.

Back then, the business at these chicken eateries was booming, almost like hosting endless banquet meals — hundreds of round tables were set up under barely decorated sheds, packed with guests. Often, before the customers at the front had even finished paying, those waiting impatiently behind would already start helping the staff clear the tables!! Especially on holidays, there was no rest all day long. So us little ones also worked part-time jobs at our uncle’s chicken eatery during weekends.

Mi’er still remembers that when she was in elementary school, part-time workers earned NT$1,500 a day on weekends. NT$1,500 was a significant sum back then — which just goes to show how good the business was at those chicken eateries to afford such wages for part-timers. But later on, the chicken eateries in the Yangmingshan area gradually declined, and business at her uncle’s place also dropped significantly. On the contrary, the Wulai area still had plenty of such eateries standing strong.

In fact, once you get on the mountain road leading to Wulai, you’ll find that there are more local chicken eateries than hot spring hotels along the way. However, among these places, Mi’er discovered one chicken eatery that wasn’t easy to find, with an unassuming storefront — yet it's not only the top choice for locals, but also a spot where many black luxury cars make special trips to dine. That place is Menghong.

That day, Mi’er and our family photographer decided to go on a whim. Following the address we got, we drove only halfway using the satellite navigation (because that address wasn’t even in the nav system!!). Just when we thought we’d reached a dead end, we finally spotted the Menghong sign. When we arrived at the entrance, we couldn’t believe our eyes. Who would’ve thought that deep in the mountains there would be a restaurant that looked ready to host a banquet at any time? The open space was filled with dozens of large round tables. It’s clear that this place must’ve been bustling with people when business was booming.

That day, we were the only table of guests, but the warm and hospitable Owner Yu and his family still served us with great care — quickly heating up the wok and tea, preparing the dishes for us. While chatting with Mom Yu, we learned that Menghong not only raises its own local chickens, but also makes its own soy sauce, salted winter melon, pickled bamboo shoots, plum juice, herbal tea... and even forages for wild herbs and vegetables up in the mountains. And when I picked up a piece of chicken skin with the luster of yellow jade and took a bite, it was actually crispy. The chicken meat itself was sweet and tender — it left Mi’er completely amazed.

The owner said that the Yu family moved here eighty years ago, and only started raising chickens nearly thirty years ago, also selling some home-cooked dishes, all cooked by the cooking-loving Owner Yu Bingnan himself. At that time, Wulai didn’t have many restaurants, let alone crowds flocking up the mountain for chicken. But the chickens raised at Menghong were each at least nine months old, and they were fed corn, grains, and vegetables, resulting in golden, crispy skin and sweeter meat — far surpassing the average free-range chickens. Coupled with their traditional family chicken-cooking method, even the breast meat of their steamed chicken was tender and juicy, allowing Menghong, despite being tucked away deep in the mountain forest, to build a reputation and stay packed with guests.

Looking at the table full of delicious dishes, paired with the warmth of the Yu family, in the cool autumn mountains of Wulai, Mi’er found a kind of warmth akin to a hidden paradise. Next time, she definitely needs to gather a whole table of friends for a big meal — it’s a shame that this time she could only order a few dishes to try.

Salt and pepper creek shrimp, NT$150. These are creek shrimp caught in the streams around Wulai and Guangxing — they’re native species in Taiwan!! The aroma upon serving is simply unique, making you eager to take a bite right away.

Look at these shrimp — each one is a different size, and they shine in bright red hues. Some are quite large, but their shells aren’t hard at all. When you pop the whole thing into your mouth to chew, the shell is crispy, yet you can still taste the elasticity of the shrimp meat. It’s completely different from the texture of many farmed creek shrimp that often feel sharp and tough on the bite.

Wild fern stir-fried with homemade fermented bean paste, NT$100.
Homemade wild fern sprouts, stir-fried with self-made fermented bean paste. When eating, mix in some egg yolk. The flavor is salty, fragrant, and crispy, yet tender without any toughness — instead, it’s quite delicate and refreshing.

Plum-flavored sweet potatoes, NT$100. These sweet potatoes are homegrown, with an incredibly smooth and sweet texture. They’re simply coated with a thin layer of flour and fried, yet turn out so soft and fluffy. Topped with self-ground plum powder, wow~~ This makes for a fantastic dessert after the meal~~ Anyone who comes here will definitely order a plate.

Steamed chicken / NT$20 per 1 liang (50g). Look at this golden-skinned, white-meat chicken — every bite is tender and juicy. The chicken is prepared using the “poaching” method, which makes it so delicious. A big plate like this costs about NT$600, and because the chickens are raised for over nine months, the meat is especially fine, tender, and sweet.

Close-up shot — can you see that yellow-golden chicken skin and chicken fat?? It tastes amazing even just like this, no need for any dipping sauces at all!! But since their soy sauce is also home-brewed, dipping it in soy sauce with chili adds another unique flavor!!

The first floor is the dining area, and the second floor and above are where the owner’s family lives. So it’s common to see people coming to eat even after 10 p.m., and Owner Yu usually doesn’t turn them away.

See that......... and this is just the tables under the open shed — you can imagine how crowded it must get when business is good. The most impressive part is how spotlessly clean it’s kept — the tables even have glass tops, seriously~~ Give a round of applause~~

Aside from dining in, many also come to buy takeout. It’s said that their chicken soup is even better. Next time, I’m definitely gathering a group to come eat the local chicken here~~

Menghong

No. 2, Lane 5, Alley 202, Section 1, Pingguang Road, Guangxing Li, Xindian District, New Taipei City
02-2666-5282
11:00 AM – 11:00 PM
 

"Author of this article: Mi’er. After graduating from National Chengchi University’s Chinese Literature Department, she entered the field of food journalism. Coupled with being raised under the guidance of her chef mother, she has a very keen sense for food — not only does she love to eat, but she also loves to cook. Due to work, she often travels around the country in search of delicious food, while also sharing her food experiences on her blog and frequently organizing group food outings. She is the author of the book 'Group Food Tasting Reports.'

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