
▲The Japanese believe that eel can help restore vitality. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen-geng)
Reported by Huang Shiyuan / Special Feature
What is the must-eat food in Japan during summer? Those well-versed in Japanese cuisine will surely know it’s eel rice. The Japanese believe that eel can help restore vitality. With the hot summer weather, eating eel replenishes energy and refreshes the spirit, which is why Japanese eel restaurants are always packed on the annual "Do you no ushi no hi" (Midsummer Day of the Ox). In Taipei, the four popular spots are Hizenya, Kenmochiya, Kyotoya, and Hamamatsuya.
Japanese-style eel rice is made by first splitting and deboning the eel, then slowly grilling it over charcoal while continuously brushing it with a sweet-salty sauce. However, there are variations in preparation—some are grilled directly, while others are steamed before grilling. The secret to delicious eel lies not only in the freshness of the eel but also in the sauce, which is often a family-secret recipe passed down through generations at renowned restaurants.
Hizenya
Located on Taipei’s Qijing Street, Hizenya sees impressively long queues outside its door on weekends, often requiring at least an hour’s wait to get in. As one of Taipei’s long-established eateries, its interior decoration, dominated by wood tones, resembles that of many classic Japanese restaurants. Hizenya offers reasonably priced eel rice and has garnered many positive online reviews, though some customers have noted subpar service due to the high volume of patrons.
Address: No. 2-13, Lane 121, Section 1, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2561-7859
Hours: 11:00–14:30; 17:00–21:00
Kyotoya
Located on Tianjin Street in Taipei, Kyotoya doesn’t draw as large a crowd as Hizenya, but customers still need to line up during peak dining hours. The restaurant uses a ticket-numbering system, so you don’t have to stand in line. Prices range from around NT$300 to NT$1,500.
Address: No. 41, Tianjin St., Zhongshan District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2541-9803
Hours: 11:30–14:00; 17:30–21:30
Kenmochiya
Although Kenmochiya is listed among Taipei’s top four eel rice restaurants, it’s technically more of a Japanese restaurant. In addition to its signature eel rice, it also offers an omakase-style menu with three price tiers: NT$1,000, NT$1,500, and NT$2,000. Moreover, Kenmochiya has opened a branch at New Taipei City A4, Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Xinyi.
Address: No. 31, Lane 258, Section 2, Jianguo N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2516-0951
Hours: 11:30–14:00; 17:30–22:00
Hamamatsuya
Also located in Zhongshan District, Hamamatsuya is the most expensive of the four. What sets it apart is its use of live eels, prepared to order. This not only makes it pricier, but also means longer wait times—around 45 to 60 minutes. The menu also features an “eel three ways” option, where the eel is served in three different styles.<、加入葱花芝麻海苔丝、鳗鱼茶泡饭。
Address: No. 22, Lane 119, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City
Phone: 02-2567-5705
Hours: 11:30–14:00; 17:30–22:00
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