Legendary wontons make a comeback: Locals moved as nostalgic food lives on despite the demolition of Zuoying Market

▲ The 60-year-old Fen Yang Wonton Soup in Old Zuoying is a beloved taste known to all locals. (Photo by reporter Liao Minghui, same below)

Reported by Liao Minghui / Kaohsiung

The Zuoying Second Public Market, established in the 11th year of the Showa era (1936), is the oldest market in Kaohsiung. The site is privately owned, and the government paid the landowner millions in rent annually. However, with the rise of supermarkets and hypermarkets, local shopping habits changed, and business at the traditional market declined significantly. Unable to sustain the losses, the government demolished the market in July 2017. Despite strong opposition from locals and vendors, including protests with white banners, the outcome could not be reversed—the market has been razed to the ground.

▲ The % market was established in the 11th year of the Showa era and has now been demolished.

Many renowned traditional snacks in the old market have been passed down through three or four generations, with patrons spanning generations from grandparents to grandchildren. For locals, the street food at traditional markets is not just affordable and delicious—it also carries childhood memories and the warmth of family. Interviewee Mr. Lin sighed, “I’ve been coming to these stalls since I was a kid, taken here by my dad. You can only get wonton soup with egg here,” and “It’s a familiar taste, full of warm memories.”

▲ The Fen Yang Wonton Soup in Old Zuoying has rented a new storefront at the market entrance.

Although the Zuoying Second Public Market has become history, the classic flavors live on. One of them is the 60-year-old Fen Yang Wonton Soup, which has rented a storefront at the market entrance. The owner said, “After the demolition, we had to find a new place to rent—otherwise, our regular customers wouldn’t be able to find us.” Though the historic market was full of character, a testament to the years and a cultural landmark, some traditions inevitably fade with the times.

▲ The % modern space offers a bright and spacious environment for diners.