非洲节日：埃塞俄比亚主显节-Timket

Epiphany, also known as "Epiphany", is derived from the Greek word epiphaneia, which literally means "appearing" or "being known", which means "Jesus showed his divinity to the world three times." Epiphany, locally called Timket Festival (meaning baptism) in Ethiopia, is a mainstream festival in Ethiopia, celebrating the baptism of Jesus on the Jordan River. According to the local Ethiopian calendar, celebrations are generally held from January 18th to January 20th every year. Ethiopia's calendar is relatively unique. It still uses the traditional Julian calendar, but its 13-month setting of each year is more like ancient Egypt. According to this calendar, the date of Epiphany is different from that in other Orthodox countries. From January 18th to 20th every year, believers from various parishes will go to participate in the celebration known locally as "Timket", and the "Tabot" above the priests' heads is the mysterious "Lost Ark of the Covenant". This year, Epiphany falls on January 19, but the celebrations begin days before.

At this time of year, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church celebrates Epiphany, with thousands of pilgrims flocking to ancient churches in the ancient cities of Lalibela and Gondar to pray and meditate. The observance of Epiphany is unique in the world by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, itself a branch of Christianity that has been the country's dominant religion since the fourth century. Although other Christian denominations celebrate Epiphany, it is almost exclusively in Ethiopia with such colorful ceremonies.

Nearly two-thirds of Ethiopian citizens are Orthodox Christians. To commemorate and celebrate the first time Jesus appeared to the Gentiles after his birth as a human being, in January every year, Ethiopian Orthodox believers would rush to the ceremony site dressed in white and experience the baptism of Jesus in the flowing holy water.

The most famous and unique thing about Epiphany in Ethiopia is that local believers will reenact the baptism of Jesus in a gorgeous and solemn way, just like a large outdoor stage play. People wear specific outfits that day and are carefully groomed from head to toe. Tabot, would be butted on the head by priests along the way. Priests are almost entirely covered in sacred robes from head to toe that day. Under the leadership of the priests, people crowded to the river and repeated the baptism ceremony (believers had been baptized as children) to remind people to remember the vows made during previous baptisms. After the christening ceremony, there were various celebration activities such as singing and dancing.

The entire ceremony lasts for 3 days and begins with fasting. Regardless of whether they are fasting or not, believers must participate in the Eucharist ceremony that morning. This ceremony is held by a pond or stream, where they jump into the water and renew their vows. The next day, local residents wear traditional white robes and walk down the street accompanied by costumed priests accompanied by lively songs and dancers. At the front of the procession is the old man holding the ceremonial guard, followed by the middle-aged man who is singing. The young people are dancing at the end, while the women are watching. The ceremony, called Tabot, appears to be spontaneous, but is actually organized by a respected local elder.

During the processions, priests carry umbrellas decorated with ornate sequins and embroidery, many decorated with images of Jesus and saints. Priests dance and shake their hands during the procession, while elders and onlookers sing along with them. Priests would stand in rows wearing colorful clothes, and they would also carry replicas of the Ark of the Covenant. During the procession, the priests wave their bright silk scarves and hold their embroidered umbrellas high. During the main procession, priests dance, sing, and carry replicas of the Ark of the Covenant to churches, where they pray.

Others carry beautiful crosses, and Ethiopia is known for its high-quality filigree metalwork. Dancers will participate in the religious procession throughout the process. All dancers are men, while women can only watch along the way under the veil. The robes of the priests are decorated with exquisite work beading embroidery that outshines even the colorful garments of the women. The ceremony attracts thousands of pilgrims to Lalibela and involves all levels of society. During a break in the celebrations, priests sprayed holy water on the mostly female crowd. Some young people took the opportunity to read the Bible. 

A traveler has long said that if you have the chance, you must come to Gondar on the day of Epiphany. Gondar is the oldest capital city of Ethiopia. Let us listen to this traveler recount his experience of experiencing this festival before: "Although I had been mentally prepared for this, Gondar still tried its best to surprise me." The small Ethiopian Airlines double-cab propeller plane stopped at the lonely airport. The airport in Gondar doesn't even have a wall. Dozens of passengers, dragging large and small bags, swaggered across the runway. Pushing open the glass door, my eyes suddenly lit up. A beautiful woman in an embroidered white dress and a handsome man in white came forward with a smile on his face, holding a bamboo basket full of popcorn and pastries.

Not far away, in the rosin smoke, a girl squats on a grass-covered carpet, with a head full of heavy black hair, bent over and brewing fragrant Ethiopian coffee. Everything is just like what you see on postcards and tourist promotional materials. People simply cannot resist these charming smiles. The Ethiopian tour guide had a bright purple car. He caught us just after we finished our cup of coffee. He spoke fluent English, so we couldn't refuse. We arrived at the airport too early and there were no staff at the airport. In the blink of an eye, there were only a few idle people left in the small airport. No one spoke English except the tour guide. From the airport to the city, there were people wearing white clothes and gauze walking along the way. Their slender figures, paired with fluttering white clothes, looked particularly pure and elegant on the African land.

The tour guide said, "You have come at the right time. This is the busiest time of the year in Gondar. Which hotel should I take you to?" We replied, we are not sure yet! The tour guide was shocked, "You haven't made a reservation? No hotel has any vacancies at this time." Indeed, a month ago, we made transoceanic calls to all the hotels and inns in Gondar, and there were no rooms available. We were ready to sleep on the streets. However, I was lucky and found me the last room in an inn under the castle.

The sudden appearance of Gondar is like a Mercedes-Benz horse pulling a Mercedes-Benz car speeding through the streets. It makes people unable to tell the difference between time and space. And at this time of Epiphany, from the village to the streets, there are crowds of families all dressed in white, wearing embroidered traditional robes, wearing slender high heels. You will never have the slightest idea of a young woman dragging a long colorful brocade evening gown, or a young man in a straight suit or even a well-tied bow tie: This is Africa, this is on the streets of Ethiopia, Africa. You will think that this is just a scene in a European literary film.

Of course, many times, when you see groups of men holding long sticks in their hands, this performance will reveal a little flaw. After all, it is still in Africa! 

It is said that Ethiopia is a country of beauties, and there is absolutely no doubt about this. At present, every man, woman, and child who is so carefully dressed is shining brightly. But crowds of people in costumes spread like a tide in every corner of Gondar, and no corner is forgotten.

On the festival day, crowds gather inside and outside the green baths of Fasilidas outside the city.

In 1636, when King Facilidas established his capital here, in order to prevent the Catholic invasion at that time, he wanted to build this new city into a city with only Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. Everyone must be baptized by Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity in this bath before entering the city.

Thousands of people blocked the small entrance of the bathhouse, passing in and out through this small door less than one meter wide. The locals surrounding the door encouraged me to go in and watch the fun. However, watching the two streams of people coming in and out meeting in a narrow road inside and outside the threshold, the energy that burst out in an instant made me quite awed.

After watching and wandering around for several times, I finally waited for a moment when the flow of people was stagnant, and then I squeezed in through the door. There are actually several levels of stands set up inside. What are they for? The stands were crowded with people bathing in the sacred pool. There were men, women, and children, all with exquisite figures, naked or semi-naked, which made me feel a little embarrassed to see them.

However, they were very calm in the water, thinking about it. With the stands and the audience, what else was there to be embarrassed about? When Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River, the holy water brought health and wealth. People next to me began to encourage me to bathe in it. They said it would bring me good luck. The Holy Fountain is filled with water only on Epiphany.

Amidst the prayers, the young people selected by the church poured water on the people around them, kicking off the bathing carnival. King Fasilidas established his capital here. For hundreds of years, Gondar was the soul of Ethiopia. Fasilidas Castle has become the center of Gondar today.

The baptized crowd started from here and poured into the streets and alleys of Gondal, singing and dancing. Priests in gorgeous colorful robes, surrounded by religious leaders and social dignitaries wearing gorgeous crowns, walked slowly; boys and girls lined up dozens of meters long on both sides wore green and crimson holy garments; boys and girls with African drums walked in the center, beating drums and dancing, and the crowd clapped and sang in harmony with the music and drums. 

The others were all dazzlingly white, with this as the center, radiating out to the surrounding area for several miles, and they could not stop singing and dancing. The contrast between this pure white and the dazzling jewel-like color of the church team is clear, and with the burning spices in the air, it melodiously floats under the sky of Gonder. In Gondar, most of the time, I couldn't stand still at all. Everyone who passed by stared at me unabashedly and couldn't take my eyes away. After a while, the children came forward shyly, said Salaam, and stretched out their little hands to shake our hands. After a while, a big circle will be formed with us as the center. But when singing, dancing and praying, they are not distracted, only pious and sincere.