Written by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Reports on Gucheng Rong
This authentic Kyoto kaiseki cuisine, with centuries of history, has earned the prestigious Michelin two-star rating from France, yet it is flawlessly presented in a five-star hotel in Taipei—truly a testament to Chef Takagi Kazuo’s dedication to his craft.
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The painterly "Variety Platter," a highlight of Kyoto cuisine, features ingredients artfully shaped like chrysanthemums, persimmons, rice ears, and maple leaves by Chef Takagi, evoking the ambiance of late autumn. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Although Taipei has not yet been included in the Michelin guide, many restaurants and hotels have introduced Michelin-starred chefs from Europe in recent years, so locals are no strangers to Michelin dining. However, when the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel announced its collaboration with renowned Japanese chef Takagi Kazuo, making it the first Japanese restaurant in Taiwan helmed by a Michelin-starred chef, food connoisseurs flocked to it. Chef Takagi presents meticulously prepared, intricately crafted, and exquisitely plated Kyoto kaiseki.
Inheriting the Master’s Essence, Reaching New Heights
At 41, Chef Takagi Kazuo specializes in refined Kyoto kaiseki. Since 2007, he has run "Kyō Ryōri – Takagi" in Ashiya, a suburb of Kobe, carefully selecting seasonal ingredients to attract dignitaries and celebrities. The restaurant’s signboard was even handwritten by former Japanese Prime Minister Morihiro Hosokawa. When the first edition of the "Kansai Michelin Guide" covering Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, and Nara was published in 2010, "Kyō Ryōri – Takagi" was awarded two stars—a distinction it has held for four consecutive years.
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The lunch set at ibuki features simple yet elegant nigiri sushi presented in a "royal cuisine" style by Chef Takagi. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Chef Takagi Kazuo’s grandfather and maternal grandfather were both skilled cooks, his father was the head of a hotel banquet department, and his mother taught cooking at home. While his talent runs in the family, even a gifted horse needs a discerning eye. Chef Saenoki Mun, the master of the high-end Kyoto restaurant "Kyō Daiwa," was Chef Takagi’s mentor. When Chef Takagi, fresh out of high school, wanted to start his culinary career like any other chef, the 86-year-old Saenoki, who had served 32 heads of state including Princess Grace Kelly, saw his exceptional potential and advised him to finish university: "With your talent, you could become a chef now, but if you graduate first and still want to cook, you’ll be an outstanding one." Little did he know, those words would change Chef Takagi’s life.
Following the advice, Chef Takagi not only attended university but also spent a year in the UK studying languages. After graduation,
he joined "Kyō Daiwa" for rigorous training. By age 29, he was promoted to deputy head chef. Only after Chef Saenoki retired did Takagi open his own small 10-seat "Kyō Ryōri – Takagi" in Hyōgo Prefecture. Its immense popularity meant reservations often required a one- to two-month wait. Even his current location in Ashiya, known as the "Beverly Hills of Hanshin," seats only 31 people, as the essence of kaiseki lies in the chef personally conveying centuries of refined culinary culture to guests—not mass production.
To ensure excellence, Far Eastern Plaza Hotel sent three top Japanese cuisine chefs to Japan for three months of intensive training under Chef Takagi to master kaiseki and Michelin-level preparation, techniques, and processes. Chef Takagi also dispatched his top disciple, Kudo Masakazu, to Taipei to oversee the kitchen. After all, ibuki is the only overseas restaurant bearing Chef Takagi’s name. The refined royal-style lunch and kaiseki dinner are a perfect fusion of kaiseki traditions and fresh, seasonal local ingredients.
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The Boston lobster with sea urchin roe and cured fish roe is grilled to perfection, with Taiwanese ingredients like sea urchin and cilantro highlighting the dish’s freshness. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
The Mysterious First Broth: The Soul of Kyoto Cuisine
This is why every dish Chef Takagi serves resonates with the seasons, and the most important is the soup served first, as "its flavor and aroma define the chef’s style and the restaurant’s identity." What’s the secret behind the "First Broth," used in nearly every dish? It starts with "ma-konbu" (true kelp) from Rausu in Hokkaido’s Okhotsk Sea, costing ¥8,000 per kilogram, and tuna-katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) from Kyushu, which is about 12 times more expensive than regular katsuobushi. Even the thickness of the flakes is strictly controlled so they sink naturally into the broth without stirring, preserving its original flavor.
This is evident in the appetizer "Sesame Tofu with Caviar, Sea Urchin, and Shrimp Consommé Gelée." While the imported Japanese kuzu and bracken starch sesame tofu surprises with its rich texture, the consommé gelée base steals the show—crystal-clear and melt-in-your-mouth, with a subtly salty yet intensely umami flavor that surprisingly complements the thick sesame tofu, thanks to the broth infused into the tofu itself.
The "Yuzu Autumn Chrysanthemum Lobster Ball Mushroom Soup" not only uses the First Broth but also incorporates the four essential elements of traditional Kyoto soup: "First, ingredients like fish or eggs to satisfy hunger; second, vegetables or roots; third, green accents; and fourth, aromatic elements." Thus, the satisfying lobster balls, organic chrysanthemum petals, autumn mushrooms, and freshly grated Japanese yuzu peel create an aroma of autumn the moment the lid is lifted. The droplets on the bowl’s lid follow a samurai-era tradition—Chef Takagi sprinkles them as a secret signal to prevent potential poisoners, a detail foodies will appreciate.
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What appears to be steamed egg is actually a perfectly executed steamed dish made with broth, soy milk, sea urchin, and lily bulbs. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
In Kyoto cuisine, the "Variety Platter" may come before the main course, but it’s second only to the soup in importance. The Japanese term "hassun" refers to a selection of small dishes served between courses, offering variety to encourage conversation while giving the chef time to prepare the main dishes. For autumn, Chef Takagi’s special platter includes crispy crab rolls with fried tofu skin, beef and vegetable rolls with mustard mayo; flower-shaped squid sushi mimicking chrysanthemums, salmon sushi resembling autumn persimmons, delicately carved vinegar-marinated chrysanthemum daikon, and sweetish eggplant yakitori as a delightful finale. Surprisingly, even the garnish is crafted from sweet potato cut into maple leaf shapes, enhancing the deep autumn vibe and showcasing kaiseki’s "artful plating."
The main dish, "Boston Lobster with Cured Fish Roe Grilled Golden," features lobster meat cut and seared on a teppan before being placed back in the shell, finished with Taiwanese cured fish roe and cilantro to highlight the seafood’s natural flavors. The steamed dish, "Sea Urchin Tofu Steamed Egg," uses the First Broth along with soy milk, sea urchin, and lily bulbs to achieve a silky tofu-like texture with fresh seafood notes.
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A glimpse of the entrance to ibuki and its wine cellar corner. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
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