Japan's No. 1 Hotel Water – Yukei Salon de Thé

 

 

 

The variation in taste gives rise to differences in produce, such as the north-south flavor variations of Kyoto vegetables, and various processed goods like tofu gain distinctive flavors because of the water. The diversity of “water” creates the richness of Kyoto’s food culture. The pursuit of renowned water becomes a commitment to cuisine, with many chefs and tea masters using their own wells or drawing from specific water sources to cook, perform tea ceremonies, or make wagashi. It is the versatility and constancy of Kyoto’s water that make this possible.

 

So when the Kyoto subway was being constructed, aside from concerns about damage to historic sites, the biggest backlash revolved around the preservation of water veins. That’s when some chefs stepped forward to defend groundwater rights, and leading the charge was the head of Kyoto’s “Three Great Hotels,” Yoki.

“It was quite a long time ago, but apparently during the excavation of the Kyoto subway, many groundwater veins dried up, and Yoki’s location was within the affected area. The then-owner and head chef went to great lengths to ensure Yoki’s well water remained unaffected. In the end, many restaurants had to shut down due to water issues, but Yoki managed to preserve its original water source and remains in operation to this day,” said Yukei Salon de Thé manager Ishii Ako.

 

Yoki is a top-tier traditional Japanese inn with over 300 years of history. Along with Sumiya and Shigetsu, it is known as one of Kyoto’s Three Great Hotels (the “Three Houses”), and is even referred to as Japan’s No. 1 Hotel. It is listed as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan. Aside from its classic, poetic space and exquisitely detailed service, its cuisine is highly renowned. What supports Yoki’s pure and authentic flavors across generations is its well water. “The water we use for tea, coffee, and all kinds of sweets comes from Yoki’s well,” said Manager Ishii.

 

Warm winter sunlight bathes whitewashed walls, casting shadows of swaying reeds, while a marble signboard bears the café’s French name in elegant lettering—a fusion of Japanese and Western styles. Push open the door hidden behind, and you enter a long, high-ceilinged space where Nordic furniture rests quietly in the air. Look up, and the construction techniques of Meiji-era townhouses from a century ago are preserved, with dark, weathered wood stained by sun and water. Within the refined spatial minimalism, at the far end lies a Japanese-style courtyard garden crafted with moss, stones, and seasonal plants. Yukei Salon de Thé is a café planned by Ms. Satō Toshiko, the 11th-generation owner of Yoki, and located in the same alleyway. Next door is “Gallery Yukei,” which sells Yoki-designed goods and accessories. Yukei Salon de Thé was renovated from a Meiji-era townhouse, preserving its structure and redesigned according to Ms. Satō’s vision. The upper part of the building retains the original townhouse appearance, and within the old-world atmosphere, the Nordic classic furniture Ms. Satō has carefully collected over the years blends seamlessly with the Japanese style. The simple, functional space tells a story of both classic and modern aesthetics, another embodiment of the Yoki way of life.

 

For those who simply want a taste of the Yoki lifestyle, a visit to Yukei Salon de Thé is in order—especially for the “water,” the flavor that permeates Kyoto’s daily life. “Yoki’s well water shares the same origin as the ‘Somei Renowned Water’ of Rinyo Shrine. It’s soft water. The dishes, drinks, and sweets served at Yoki and here at Yukei are all made using Yoki’s well water,” said Manager Ishii.