[Sunday Slow Time]Zakka Zoo and Button Button Workshop: Baking Classes in a Boutique Shop

Over twenty years ago, instructor Tony graduated from a Tokyo culinary school. After returning to Taiwan, he worked as sous chef at Taipei’s Sherwood Hotel and head chef at Taichung’s Regent Hotel. Later, he took over the pastry section of Zakka Zoo’s Yongkang branch. This tearoom doesn’t have a prominent signboard. The first floor usually sells handmade boutique goods. “Customers often only realize there’s a tearoom here when they smell the aroma of freshly baked cookies wafting up from upstairs,” said Wang Man, owner of Zakka Zoo.

 

Seven years ago, Wang Man and his wife “Particle” resolutely quit their jobs in the media industry to fulfill Particle’s dream of opening the first Zakka Zoo in Da’an District. In addition to selling locally made leather goods, silver jewelry, and patchwork crafts, the shop also offers Japanese goods brought back from Tokyo, Osaka, Kamakura, and Kyoto—such as illustrated goods by well-known artists, linen clothing from Kichijoji and Jiyugaoka, handwoven canvas bags from century-old shops, and cat-themed souvenirs collected during travels. The second floor serves as the venue for hands-on workshops.

 

Tony’s wife “Bootygg” is also one of the workshop instructors. During a casual chat, she mentioned Tony’s background in pastry-making, which aligned perfectly with Particle’s idea of offering baking classes. When Zakka Zoo’s Yongkang branch opened in March 2011, Tony was invited to be the baking instructor. Mushroom quiches, cranberry cookies, cheesecakes, and strawberry heart tarts—all received high praise from students. “The baking classes are more popular than other craft workshops,” said Wang Man.

On a warm afternoon, we joined instructor Tony for a fun tiramisu class. With his humorous explanations, making desserts didn’t seem difficult at all. Before starting, the instructor prepared gelatin for the students to use later. The work surface, made of two wooden tables pushed together, was covered with essential baking tools: whisks, spatulas, mixing bowls, digital scales, and mascarpone cheese that had returned to room temperature.

 

Today’s dessert class was fully booked. Due to the limited space, the eight students were divided into two groups, working in pairs. Instructor Tony started by making ladyfingers. “Do you know why ladyfingers are called ‘Lady Finger’? Because their shape resembles a lady’s slender fingers.” Unlike the crispy ones found in stores, his version avoids using cornstarch, resulting in a softer, cake-like texture. They absorb coffee liqueur better too.

 

This recipe uses the separated egg method, dividing the yolks and whites of two whole eggs. Caster sugar is added to the yolks in batches and whipped quickly until they turn a pale, creamy yellow. As he demonstrated, the instructor shared insider tips for each step. For instance, “For tiramisu, start with the yolk mixture because whipped yolks can wait, but egg whites can’t (they’ll deflate).” Or, “Don’t add too much sugar at once, or you’ll get less volume.”

The instructor explained each step in detail, while students gathered around the wooden table, jotting down notes in their recipe booklets. But while everything looked effortless when the instructor did it, students often encountered little “accidents” when it was their turn. Yet, that’s what makes baking cakes so fun—you hold the mixer, I carefully sift flour into the bowl, and together we create something sweet that also carries the wonderful memories of the class.

 

Although the instructor simplified the steps, the class still took about four hours. But students didn’t seem to mind—they were already eager to sign up for next week’s truffle pizza workshop. Yi-Tao, who has taken five of Tony’s baking classes, said that Tony’s dessert recipes are simple and the results are delicious. After trying them at home, she uploads photos of her creations to the class’s exclusive Facebook group, where she can also ask the instructor any questions. So far, she has learned how to make lemon yogurt, pine nut cake, bread pudding, and English scones. The compliments from friends give her a great sense of accomplishment, which is why she keeps coming back for more classes.

“I see this place as a platform for sharing,” said Tony. While working at a cake shop in Japan, he noticed that the chefs there were very open and freely shared their dessert recipes. “They weren’t afraid for you to learn.” Tony shares this philosophy, believing that the “insider tips” of making great desserts come entirely from experience and personal insight—things others simply can’t learn.

 

Due to the rigorous standards of hotel dessert production, which differ greatly from the fun approach of handmade baking, Tony always practices his recipes multiple times before teaching to develop simplified methods that are “easy for students to recreate at home,” and avoids using machines whenever possible, preferring to do things by hand. For example, the five jars of homemade cookies on the kitchen counter on the second floor were all mixed with a whisk—and these cookies have also been highlights of past baking classes.