Experience the pristine wilderness of Maolin and discover its iconic "Three Blacks" while admiring the stunning mountain scenery.

Text/Reported and compiled by MOOK Scenic Spots
 
Introduction
Mid-July will soon see the arrival of the Black Rice Festival of the Rukai people in Maolin, with tribal members already busy preparing for the celebration. The Rukai tribe has countless myths and legends that echo through these mountains. In Maolin, you’ll find purple crow butterflies, ancient rock carvings in Wanshan, and the black rice of Dona — take a look at Maolin’s famous “Three Blacks”!

The mystery and beauty of butterfly codes
Maolin is located on the southern foothills of the Central Mountain Range, bordering Taoyuan, Liouguei, Gaoshu in Pingtung, Sandimen, Wutai, and Yilan in Taitung. It is Taiwan’s least-populated third-level administrative region, primarily inhabited by the indigenous Rukai people, divided among three tribes: Maolin, Wanshan, and Dona.

The Zhuokou River meanders through Maolin, and Highway 132 runs all the way through without needing navigation — just winding mountain roads accompanied by beautiful scenery. What makes Maolin unique is that there are no traffic lights, though warning signs are placed along the way. Take a closer look: “Butterflies ahead, slow down,” truly a fun touch.

Timing is key on the butterfly-watching trails
The forests are dotted with “Lacenta aspera,” the main host plant for purple crow butterflies. It’s recommended to visit in the morning, as butterflies tend to hide away when the midday sun gets too hot. During the annual Maolin Biennial Butterfly Season from November to March, the grasslands are covered with butterflies sipping water, creating a breathtaking sight like a butterfly carpet — surreal and unforgettable.

The Zisalishali Trail is perfect for leisurely exploration, taking about three hours to complete. Near the plaza of the Butterfly Ecological Park, there’s a butterfly-shaped chapel where the Dule Rigga Gospel Church surprisingly houses twelve lifelike butterflies. Rukai artisan Ubaq crafted them inspired by the purple crow butterfly family — the twelve butterflies represent the twelve disciples. Experiencing art integrated into tribal life feels incredibly natural here.

If the Butterfly Valley is like the butterfly dream of Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai born from love, then the Lover’s Valley on the south bank of the Zhuokou River tells its own romantic tales across the water. In the Rukai language, Lover’s Valley is called “Tbaru,” meaning “beautiful deep pool.” There are seven levels of waterfalls here, and it was one of the few waterfalls unharmed during Typhoon Morakot.