Royal Wang revives classic Taiwanese cuisine — the nostalgic flavors of Chef Feng He Ri Li that hit all the right notes

Text by MOOK Scenic Spots Zhang Yingying   Photography by Liao Weiren

The first branch of “Feng He Ri Li” is conveniently located near the Songjiang Nanjing MRT station. Not only is it close to office areas, but the bustling Zhongshan, Siping, and Nanjing Fuxing commercial districts nearby also attract constant foot traffic. Along the stretch of Songjiang Road along the MRT line, there are often Japanese tourists and businesspeople, making the spot not only easily accessible for locals, but also highly appealing to foreign visitors. Many international diners have praised the delicious and heartwarming Taiwanese dishes, and returned overseas Chinese have even made immediate reservations, raving that they hadn’t tasted such home flavors in ages.

Chef Lin Rongzhang shares the story behind the creation and planning of the dishes at “Feng He Ri Li.” Chef Ah Zhang recalls how, before long holidays, he would often receive calls from his mother asking when he’d be home for dinner, and she would regularly remind him, “Ah Zhang, remember to come home for meals.” His mother would also prepare his favorite “tea oil fried egg.” This seemingly simple, everyday home-cooked dish turned out to be the most unforgettable flavor for Chef Ah Zhang. From this, the chef established that “the taste of mom’s cooking” is the most authentic original intention behind every dish at “Feng He Ri Li,” leading him and his team to develop a series of classic Taiwanese dishes with traditional flavors, yet with innovative techniques.

The “Tea Oil Fried Egg” has become a must-order dish that spreads by word of mouth among guests at “Feng He Ri Li.” Made by frying five eggs in a hot pan into a giant-sized omelet, blended with the aroma of tea oil and sesame oil, the dish fills the air with fragrance as soon as it’s served. Everyone rushes to grab a bite, and it’s one of the dishes most frequently ordered as an additional side.

“Old-Fashioned Cabbage Stew” is another extremely appetizing and rice-pairing dish. The precursor to cabbage stew was shark fin soup, and this cabbage stew holds a nostalgic status akin to homesickness for many away-from-home diners. Everyone has their own version of their mother’s cabbage stew — it is one of the most common home-style dishes once made by grandmas and moms across early Taiwan.