The Blessing of the Sea of Japan :: Kyoto and Fukui

In the treasure trove of ingredients that is the Sea of Japan, an ancient and refined Japanese culture has flourished, and coastal fishing villages still exude a gentle and understated cultural charm. We’ve come to Kyoto and Fukui by the Sea of Japan to trace the past and present of the Kansai region.

The Japanese are a people who eat a lot of fish. To make eating fish easier, Japanese chopsticks are often pointed, which helps remove fish bones. Typically, just a bowl of rice, a fish, and a bowl of miso soup make for a fragrant and satisfying Japanese meal. This time, we’ve come to Kyoto and Fukui around Wakasa Bay, where every port offers the freshest seafood from the Sea of Japan. The tranquil bay scenery paints the gentlest picture of coastal villages. Only by being here can you truly understand how inseparable the relationship between the ocean and Japan really is.

• The Exceptional Beauty of the Bay

In Ine Bay, Kyotango, Kyoto, there is an ancient fishing village that is a prime example of coexistence with the sea. Nestled between mountains and sea with limited flat land, the area developed “boat houses” built along the water. The first floor of these boat houses connects directly to the sea, serving as a small dock where boats come and go and fishing gear is stored. The second floor is where fishermen live their daily lives. The village gradually formed during the Edo period (1600s), and within a 5-kilometer stretch along Ine Bay, over 230 boat houses still remain today. These homes have maintained their appearance from over 300 years ago, standing quietly and peacefully amidst the green mountains and clear waters.

We boarded a sightseeing boat to circle Ine Bay. The seawater is as blue and clear as that of an island resort, so pristine you feel you could jump in and swim at any moment. Unlike the usual messiness of fishing villages, there’s none of the usual clutter, and the sea surface is free of persistent driftwood or oil stains. The black-tiled houses, scattered at varying heights, look even more simple and charming against the backdrop of mountains and water. Outside the houses are moored fishing boats, while balconies are draped with laundry and bedding. This isn’t just a tourist spot for visitors to glance at briefly—it’s been the home of villagers for two or three hundred years. I couldn’t help but wonder: with the boat houses so close to the sea, wouldn’t the homes flood during high tide? And in rough weather, wouldn’t the houses be swept away? The boat captain pointed to a small island in the middle of the bay not far away and told us it’s called Aoshima. Aoshima blocks the rolling waves from the open sea, resulting in calm sea conditions here—no significant high or low tides, let alone towering waves. Gazing at this serene water, life in the fishing village seems all the more carefree, making one envious of Ine Bay’s exceptional natural blessing.

When it comes to Kyotango in Kyoto, besides the boat houses of Ine Bay, one cannot miss Amanohashidate. Alongside Matsushima and Miyajima, Amanohashidate is counted as one of Japan’s Three Views. Stretching 3.6 kilometers across Miyazu Bay, the white sandy beach is dotted with over 8,000 pine trees. A beautiful legend surrounds Amanohashidate: it is said to be a ladder that the gods built to freely travel between heaven and the abode of the goddess. One day, the god accidentally dropped the ladder, and what fell became Amanohashidate, thus the bridge between heaven and earth disappeared. Listening to this romantic legend while walking on the white sand and strolling beneath the lush pines, with the blue sea right at your feet, it’s no wonder Amanohashidate lives up to its fame as one of Japan’s Three Views.

However, a walk in Amanohashidate Park only gives you a glimpse of the beauty. To see the full view, you must take the Kassen Park Ropeway for a bird’s-eye perspective. Most observation decks offer telescopes for viewing the scenery, but this one is different—you have to bend over and look between your legs. Can such a strange posture really reveal a more beautiful view? Half-skeptical, I tried it, and in an instant, the world seemed upside down, sea and sky blending into one indistinguishable expanse. That stretch of white sand and pine path suddenly transformed into the legendary bridge fallen from the sky—an absolutely breathtaking sight.

Half-skeptical, I tried it, and in an instant, the world seemed upside down, sea and sky blending into one indistinguishable expanse. That stretch of white sand and pine path suddenly transformed into the legendary bridge fallen from the sky—an absolutely breathtaking sight.

• The Maritime Charm of Fukui

Leaving Kyoto, we arrive at the Sanpeki Five Lakes in Fukui Prefecture, also located along Wakasa Bay. This is Fukui’s premier natural attraction. The best way to enjoy the lake is by taking a ropeway up to Mount Meizantei Natural Park, where you can gaze upon the Sanpeki Five Lakes on one side and the Sea of Japan on the other. Additionally, this place is known as a “lover’s destination.” At the mountaintop, there’s a fun “love lock” area where couples can fasten a padlock to a chain after making a wish, or write their wishes on ceramic pieces at the Tiankudo Hall and toss them down the mountain—the farther they fly, the more likely the wishes are to come true.

Since we’re here, we must try the local seafood. Kinpa Toro-bako-tei, located at the foot of the mountains near the Sanpeki Five Lakes, serves seafood grilled over charcoal to bring out its richest and freshest flavors. With a blazing charcoal fire on the table, the waitress skillfully prepares ingredients like shrimp, crab, and shellfish. With over ten years of experience, she knows exactly how long to cook each item for the best taste. The owner says the ideal dining time here is two hours. Indeed, enjoying the waitress’s amazing skills, chatting, and dining with the serene fishing village scenery—it’s a real treat.

Continuing northward, we reach “Tōjinbō” on the Echizen-Kaga Coast, where nature’s extraordinary craftsmanship is on full display. This unique landscape was formed about 1,300 years ago by volcanic activity. Massive andesite cliffs, eroded over centuries by relentless waves and snow, stretch for one kilometer, creating a majestic and awe-inspiring cliff face. Yet, many brave souls choose to lie on the cliff edge and peer downward, watching the surging waves crash against the rocks—sometimes near, sometimes far—getting an up-close sense of Tōjinbō’s thrilling precipice. Aside from walking along the cliffside trails, taking a sightseeing boat to view the cliffs from the sea offers yet another spectacular perspective.