First grilled to remove bones, then steamed and grilled again — A4 HowToTrip’s Kensukeya eel rice is delicious and bone-free

▲ The renowned eel rice shop Kensukeya expands into a department store. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)

Reported by Huang Shiyuan / Taipei

Fukuzenya, Kensukeya, Kyotoya, and Hamamatsuya are known as Taipei’s four most popular eel restaurants, among whichKensukeyais the only one that has expanded into a department store. Although it has moved out of the alleys, the Kensukeya at Shin Kong Mitsukoshi A4 still insists on offering the same taste as its flagship store, hoping to let more people enjoy delicious eel rice. Chef Ryu says that every weekend, you can see parents bringing their children to eat eel rice — a scene rarely seen at the original location.

▲ Kensukeya’s eel is first grilled 70–80% cooked to make it easier to remove the bones. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)

The most delicious part of eel rice is the sauce-glazed, golden-brown grilled eel. However, there are different preparation methods between the Kanto and Kansai styles, the main difference being whether or not there is a “steaming” step — steamed eel tends to have a softer texture. Chef Ryu says their method is to first grill the eel to about 70–80% cooked so that excess bones can be easily removed, then steam the eel to soften it, and finally repeatedly brush it with their exclusive sauce and grill it again to let the sauce penetrate the flesh.

Chef Ryu also says that Kensukeya uses three eels per jin (approx. 600g), all live eels upon arrival. They are freshly slaughtered and deboned every morning to ensure freshness. To prepare the eels, even though the A4 HowToTrip store doesn’t open until 11 AM, he and the other chefs have to arrive at 8 or 9 AM to handle the eels.

▲ Salt-grilled double wings is also one of Kensukeya’s signature dishes. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)

Besides eel rice, Chef Ryu also recommends the salt-grilled double wings, grilled unagi sushi rolls, and stewed premium beef. The salt-grilled double wings are made using free-range chicken wings, grilled directly until crispy outside and tender inside. The grilled unagi sushi roll features Japanese unagi coated in sauce, rolled with sushi rice, topped with flounder fin meat, and then grilled to bring out the aroma. The beef dish is also one of Kensukeya’s signatures — this time it’s stewed premium beef made with American short ribs, marinated early in the morning with their exclusive sauce.


▲ Another signature dish: grilled unagi sushi roll. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)


▲ Stewed premium beef. (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)


▲ Eel tamagoyaki (Japanese omelet). (Photo / Reporter Zhou Chen’geng)

Kensukeya Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Xinyi New World A4 Store
Address: 5F, No. 19, Songgao Road, Taipei City
Phone: 02-27233803
Price: Unagi donburi (grilled eel rice) NT$450, Unagi donburi lunch special: NT$380