Iconic Sushi Spot Reopens as an Ironclad Experience: A Gorgeous Feast of Fresh Cuts Right at the Counter

Text & Photos /KUNI

(Kingfish Nigiri: Rich and Plump Piece)

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Ironman Sushi
Address: No. 8, Lane 128, Fu Hua Road, Shilin District, Taipei City
Tel: (02)2837-6688
Hours: 11:30–12:50, 13:00–14:20, Wed–Mon
17:30~19:00 19:20~21:00 Wed~Mon
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Ever since I heard that the well-known MASA in Civic Boulevard had closed, I’d been keeping a close eye on the reopening date as Chef Ah Chang prepared to set up shop anew along Fu Hua Road near Tianmu.

Finally, on May 30th, it officially opened, offering two seatings for both lunch and dinner. I booked the second lunch seating and arrived right on time at 1:00 PM. Only then did I realize I’d forgotten my camera, so I had to borrow a friend’s phone (a Samsung S5) as a temporary stand-in.

(Entrance)

(The long-missed Chef Ah Chang)

(Counter Seating)

It seemed there was some miscommunication between the counter and the back area, leaving the second seating guests waiting around for twenty minutes with nothing to do. Upon closer look, it appeared they hadn’t yet hired a dedicated front-of-house staff member.

Judging from the menu, prices are more reasonable compared to the MASA days.<饭类定食四百八十起跳。点了特上握寿司(NT.980) 附前菜，Nigiri十贯，味噌，果物及甜品。

(Menu)

The hand rolls kicked things off strong. They may have looked ordinary, but the burdock threads were sliced finer than usual, fried to a crisp, and made for a very pleasing start. Then came the nigiri: the sweet shrimp were impressively large—soft, sticky, perfectly tempered, and paired exquisitely with the rice. The kingfish (kinmedai) was unexpectedly rich and fatty—fantastic. Compared to the MASA era, Chef Ah Chang has clearly leveled up his nigiri game.

(Burdock Hand Roll)

(Sweet Shrimp Nigiri)

(Sake)

(Kingfish Nigiri)

Grilled scallop tucked inside seaweed is a fairly common trick, but you’ll know it’s different the moment it hits your tongue—it’s actually filled with monkfish liver paste. Nice touch. The scallop itself was tender and crisp, but this piece was slightly let down by overly firm rice and a rice-to-fish ratio that leaned too far toward the rice. I also tried the pickled radish for a palate cleanser, but it lacked depth and had a slightly underripe edge.

(Scallop with Monkfish Liver Paste)

(Scallop Nigiri)

Then suddenly came a piece of tuna belly (chu-toro) that really surprised me—the fish was rich but not greasy, and the overall quality was excellent.

Crab meat and salmon roe served atop romaine leaves, harmonizing beautifully with sea urchin.

(Tuna Belly)

(Salmon Roe & Sea Urchin)

The lightly seared flounder fin and halibut nigiri tasted remarkably similar—the way the heat activated the fat was especially noticeable. I also tried my friend’s chirashi, where the fish pieces were cut into hearty chunks, making each bite with the rice refreshingly satisfying.

I’m not opposed to grilled nigiri, but having both the amberjack and the mackerel grilled in back-to-back pieces felt a bit much. That said, the high level of harmony between the grilled amberjack and the rice was genuinely delightful.

(Seared Flounder Fin Nigiri)

(Chirashi Sushi)

(Seared Barramundi Nigiri)

(Seared Yellowtail)

It’s quite rare to see the final thick-plate oyster made as a Nigiri, but the shape is beautiful. By now, a bottle of namazake has started to lend a slight buzz — today’s sake is excellent, bold in flavor yet never overpowering.

(Thick-Plate Oyster Nigiri)

(Miso)

(Dessert)

Compared to the Civic Boulevard period, this meal today was much more comfortable. I just hope the chaos inside and outside the venue can return to normal soon.

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