Reported by You Ru / Feature article and photography
Hong Kong’s old Western District, once inconveniently located, has retained its complete historic charm and is referred to by local media as “the last stronghold of the common people.” With the opening of subway stations, property prices and rents in the area have risen sharply, and many traditional shops have slowly disappeared. The district is now served by the Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong University, and Kennedy Town subway stations, each showcasing distinct elements of old Hong Kong. ETtoday ETToday Travel Cloud explored the area and curated a list of essential neighborhood spots to visit.
Sai Ying Pun Station
3D Murals Inside the Subway Station
A silver-haired elderly woman sits amid stacked pomelos, gazing at passersby—a scene from the touching “Fragrant Harbour” subway station artwork. These 3D murals, created by artist Louise Soloway Chan, are displayed at the exits of Sai Ying Pun Station. They depict four scenes of the Western District across different eras: a summer typhoon aftermath, Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations, winter pedestrians bundled in thick clothing, and the festive atmosphere of the Lunar New Year. The murals offer a visual journey through time, from near to far.
%The murals are located at the subway station exits.

Address: Inside Sai Ying Pun Subway Station
Sai Ying Pun Public Bathhouse
The 90-year-old “public bathhouse,” with its intact pink exterior, was established by the Hong Kong government to combat the plague and stands as a relic of old Hong Kong’s cultural heritage. Though still relatively clean inside, it has seen dwindling visitors over the decades and now faces the threat of demolition.

▲ The bathhouse retains its charming pink facade.
Address: 94 Second Street, Western District, Hong Kong
Hill Road Optical Company
This nearly 30-year-old optical shop is a hidden gem, not for trendy or vintage frames, but for genuinely vintage glasses collected over more than six decades. Half the display features newly crafted retro styles, while the other half showcases authentic antique eyewear. Some pieces date back to the West German era over 80 years ago, including Qing Dynasty-era crystal glasses—truly worth seeing.

▲ The shop may not look old from the outside, but inside it feels like an eyewear museum.
Address: 276 Queen’s Road West, Hong Kong
Phone: 2546-0053
Business Hours: Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00
Hong Kong University Station
The University of Hong Kong
As Hong Kong’s oldest university, HKU boasts remarkable architecture. The most iconic is the Main Building, featured in the film Lust, Caution. Built in 1912 as the university’s first structure, it showcases Edwardian Baroque style and features pre- and post-war tiles. It’s now a declared monument. Other highlights include the Sino-Western fusion Fung Ping Shan Building and the Chinese Language Department, both appealing to architecture enthusiasts.

▲ The 1912 Main Building showcases Edwardian Baroque style.

Address: Pok Fu Lam, Hong Kong
Kennedy Town Station
Sun Hing Restaurant
Sun Hing Restaurant, a classic dim sum shop established in 1973, is beloved by locals for its affordable prices and delicious offerings—even Hong Kong celebrity Eason Chan is a regular, especially for their signature scalding-hot custard buns. Now 42 years old, the shop has relocated multiple times due to rising rents. Owner Tsui Kwok-hing recommends the custard buns, siu mai, and har gow. With 60 dim sum varieties and nine types of buns, these three classics remain the most memorable.

▲ The custard buns are a customer favorite.

Address: Shop C, G/F, 8 Smithfield Road, Kennedy Town, Hong Kong
Phone: +852 28160616
Business hours: 3:00–16:00
Heung Heung Café
Heung Heung Café, a bread-centric eatery, is one of the “Three Treasures of Sai Wan” cherished by local residents. Rich milk tea paired with bread is served in a low-rise building divided into two floors along the main road. Unlike the flashy pastries found in many modern bakeries, their traditional breads carry a distinct, hearty emotional essence of old Hong Kong. Many Sai Wan locals worry that with the opening of the nearby MTR station, this beloved café — one of the Three Treasures — might relocate or even cease to exist.

▲ Heung Heung Café and its breakfast offerings.
Address: 107 Belcher’s Street, Kennedy Town, Sai Wan
Phone: +852 2817 1671
This article is published by HowToTrip. Sharing and reposting are welcome — please credit the source.
Article URL: https://www.howtotrip.net/views-11079