Taipei’s modernized Hakka eatery — Crab roe seafood tofu hotpot is loaded with seafood

Text & photos byXiao Hu’s Dream Food Blog

[Nanfang Sanmin Station Food] Jinshan Hakka Eatery – Flagship Store

Dear readers, just from the title, you might think it’s hard to get to since it’s all the way in Jinshan. But don’t worry, this popular Hakka eatery online is actually located just a 3-minute walk from Nanjing Sanmin MRT Station. Also… no, it’s probably the most to-my-taste Hakka cuisine I’ve had in recent years. Though I feel the flavors may not be as intense, it does align with the modern health trend of avoiding overly oily and salty food.

Before heading there, I looked it up and found quite a few restaurants with the same name… but it turns out the owner only runs this flagship store. But honestly, for me, whether it tastes good and suits my palate is more important. Right? Right. Anyway, if you want to enjoy delicious Hakka dishes, there’s no need to travel all the way to Jinshan XD.

It’s called a small eatery, but the atmosphere inside is nothing like one… whether it’s the decor or the spaciousness, it’s no different from a regular restaurant, or even better. And even with so many seats, it’s often seven or eight-tenths full during meal times, sometimes even requiring a wait.

Walking further in, there are even some surprisingly nice private rooms of various sizes that can be adjusted according to group size, perfect for our “Xiao Hu Foodie Group” to have a lively meal here (laughs).

Overall, my favorite spot is this little corner by the window, subtly revealing greenery outside and the tranquility of the alley — really nice.

The MENU is huge, and besides classic traditional Hakka dishes, there are also plenty of common dishes from various cuisines. The prices are reasonable for Taipei.

The MENU is categorized by cuisine type and ingredients, with far more options than I expected. You can pretty much find any kind of dish you’re in the mood for, which is another reason I don’t think it feels like a “small eatery” (laughs).

If you’re like me and suffer from choice paralysis, you might want to consider going straight for a set meal like this — eight portions for just 3500 NTD, less than 500 NTD per person, super worth it.

Hakka Stir-Fry (small) — You can choose normal or small portions based on the number of people. When it comes to Hakka food, the first dish that comes to mind is probably Hakka Stir-Fry. This oily, savory dish is super rice-friendly, but I’ve noticed that in areas known as Hakka strongholds, it’s often too greasy and salty. On the other hand, some改良 (modified) or adjusted versions tend to lack that oily richness and the sizzle from the wok...

That’s exactly why I like this place — because it still has that wok hei (breath of the wok) and oil aroma, but it’s not so heavy that it leaves you thirsty. This oily yet not greasy flavor makes the dried tofu, shredded squid, and even the scallion pieces incredibly smooth and tasty.

Ginger Pork Intestine (small) — The same logic applies to this dish. The sourness is just right without overpowering the natural sweetness of the pork intestine. The intestine itself isn’t overcooked to the point of being tough, and it even has the fragrant aroma of the ginger slices, along with a slight lingering spice at the end, which is quite charming.

Hakka Eggplant (small). Eggplant used to be my childhood nightmare, though I don’t know why I’ve grown to love it as an adult — especially when it’s fried to a golden, oily sheen. Just looking at it is irresistible. This dish might have benefited from great oil-blanching technique, as the texture isn’t too mushy, and it’s slightly soft. The flavor of the eggplant becomes even more fragrant and sweet as you chew, enhanced by the seasoning. The addition of my favorite basil makes it even more to my taste — highly recommended and a must-order.

Plum Vegetable Braised Pork (small). As a kid who didn’t eat seafood or vegetables, this was my favorite dish. Nowadays, I notice the preserved mustard greens have less saltiness and more tangy aroma, which makes the pork belly even more richly flavored. The half-melted fat, tender but not mushy lean meat, paired with the tangy, slightly salty preserved mustard greens underneath, is the charm of this dish. If there were congee, I’d love to drizzle a spoonful of that sauce on top… I loved eating it that way as a kid (laughs).

Sweet and Sour Squid (small) — Not sure why, but every time I eat this dish, I think of crispy fried chicken… but because it’s cut thinner, each piece is bite-sized and more fun to eat. The crispy texture pairs well with the squid’s chewiness, creating a nice mouthfeel. The seasoning is somewhat like honey glaze — sweet and tangy without being too cloying. But basically, all these dishes go great with rice.

Hakka Salty-Q Chicken (small) — The chicken skin is slightly chewy, with not too much fat underneath but enough to be smooth, carrying a subtle saltiness. The chicken meat itself is somewhat chewy. I’d suggest dipping it in the store’s special sauce for extra aroma and flavor.

Crab Roe Seafood Tofu Hotpot (small). If I had to pick a best dish of the day, it would definitely be this crab roe seafood hotpot. It’s arguably the most delicious crab roe seafood hotpot I’ve ever had. The thick, sticky texture is just right — not too gooey, not too watery. The flavor is rich and intense, with plenty of ingredients. It’s insanely delicious — another big recommendation and must-order.

Look at how many ingredients are packed into it — shrimp, super plump oysters, mushrooms, and more. It’s so satisfying to scoop and eat. Big recommendation and must-order X3...

Taro Rice Noodles (large) — When it comes to Hakka cuisine, my favorite might be taro rice noodle soup… Ever since the taste at that Minsheng East Road spot started going downhill, I haven’t been able to find that nostalgic flavor again...

Finally, I’ve found another good one. Though I wish the taro flavor was stronger… but maybe it’s because there are too many other ingredients (especially seafood)… which do add more layers and depth to the overall flavor of the noodle soup, but they also somewhat overshadow my beloved taro flavor (laughs). But hey, that’s just personal preference. Still, I really like the overall flavor of this noodle soup.

The noodles are also a big reason I love this type of noodle soup. The thickness is just my type, and they don’t get too soft even after cooking for a long time. The noodles, soaked in the broth, are super satisfying in every bite. The milkfish balls are also delicious, though I still prefer the taro XD.

Deep-Fried Silver Roll — We only added this after noticing almost every table had ordered it, but by the time it arrived, we were too full to eat more... But when it came out, we noticed it was sprinkled with my childhood favorite peanut candy powder. As a kid, I loved this powder on steamed buns… so I couldn’t help but try a piece. After two bites, I understood why everyone orders it — it’s practically their signature. The crispy outside with a slight crunch in the middle is amazing, and the peanut candy powder is super nostalgic... so delicious.

Lemon Winter Melon Tea has the familiar flavor we all know. With such rich-flavored dishes, pairing them with this sweet-and-sour cold drink is just perfect.

The final dessert, topped with what tastes like brown sugar-flavored syrup, is also pretty good. Even if you’ve eaten a lot, it’s still a bit sweet and heavy XD. But just like the winter melon lemon tea, having a cool, sweet dessert after all those rich dishes makes for a perfect ending.

Jinshan Hakka Eatery

Flagship Store: No. 5, Lane 2, Alley 250, Section 5, Nanjing East Road, Songshan District, Taipei City
Phone: 02 2765 9906
Business hours: 11:30–14:00, 17:00–21:00

"Xiao Hu's Dream Food Blog
If 'eating' is just about filling your stomach, then 'food' would be far too boring～～"