Sold out in just 2 hours！A must-try authentic Chiayi delicacy known only to locals: "Lu Shu Rou"

Text & Photos byMimi Han

60-Year-Old Authentic Taiwanese Afternoon Tea in Chiayi —Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou

When we first came to Chiayi and were told we were going to try Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou, we were honestly a bit confused. Our sister had no idea this was even a thing—another Chiayi street food gem. It turns out it’s quite similar to the黑白切 (Black & White Sliced Meats) up north or the 香肠熟肉 (Sausage & Cooked Meats) in Tainan, but here in Chiayi, it goes by the name Lu Shu Rou. The slight difference is that it focuses more on the chef’s specialty dishes and pork offal, which is hugely popular with locals. However, because it rarely appears in travel guides and bloggers seldom mention it, we heard it usually opens at 2 p.m. but is often sold out by 4 p.m. Visitors really need to go with a seasoned local to enjoy this tasty delight.

We parked near Nanmen Roundabout and arrived at the shop just as it was about to open. The stall is super small—only around 2 ping—and I remember the serving counter was still empty, yet there was already a line forming at the door. From then until we finished eating, there was a constant stream of customers. A 60-year-old Taiwanese-style afternoon tea spot, let’s take a look at this amazing Chiayi delicacy—Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou.

Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou is located near the roundabout at Gonghe Road and Minzu Road in Chiayi. There are actually many other snacks nearby, but his shop seems to have the best business. From opening to selling out—it all happens in the blink of an eye. Most customers take their food away, grabbing as much as they can, and it’s seriously impressive.

It’s said that Lu Shu Rou originally came from banquet chefs who developed the dish during off-peak seasons or when they didn’t have catering gigs. And apparently, the Lu Shu Rou at Hei Ren is made daily using freshly butchered, never-frozen pork, with a firm commitment to freshness—no leftovers. That freshness definitely draws in the crowds. I think what sets Lu Shu Rou apart from the northern 黑白切 is that there seem to be more specialty dishes here. The presentation is neat and appetizing, and it doesn’t rely too heavily on sauces. Instead, each ingredient shines through with its own flavor.

We didn’t count exactly, but there were roughly 20–30 delicious-looking items in front of the stall. We were a bit overwhelmed, but every local seemed to know exactly what they wanted, quickly grabbing their picks before heading to pay.

Every dish is cut into uniform sizes—this makes it easy for customers to pick and also simplifies the billing process with no room for disputes.

There are also some price lists posted on the wall. Most items are around 20–30 NT each, while specialty dishes like 生肠 (pig intestine) and 三丝卷 (three-shred rolls) are a bit pricier. Items like 花枝猪心 (squid and pork heart) are priced according to the market. But there are way more options on the serving counter, so those prices are just for reference.

Our group of four ordered a ton—there was no way around it, everything looked so good that we had to try a bit of everything.

A whole plate piled high with Lu Shu Rou, paired with the shop’s special sauce, plus a bowl of refreshing rice noodle soup—this is the quintessential delicious afternoon tea experience in Chiayi.

The pink-colored pork intestines have no fishy taste, the casing is super thin, and they’re not chewy at all. Just dip them in garlic soy paste and you’re good to go.

I love the pig’s blood cake here (we call it 米血 in Tainan), and it even has yellow sweet potato inside. It’s soft and chewy, adding even more flavor. Then there’s that yellow thing beside it—it’s also really tasty. Actually, it doesn’t taste as strongly flavored as you’d expect. It used to be spicier in the past, but the owner adjusted the recipe based on customer feedback to create this delicious version. People who tried it really liked it, and over time it became one of the most popular items for afternoon tea here.

The pork heart, liver, and lungs are all super fresh, and then there are the tubular bits like large intestines, heart tubes, and soft tubes—these are what we call “pig’s offal” or 猪腹内. Getting these flavors just right takes a lot of time and effort.

The fresh squid is also super bouncy, cut into big chunks, and when you dip it in the sauce and chew, it’s super satisfying.

I tried pork lung for the first time—it had this soft, airy texture when you bite into it. It’s really unique.

The meat rolls are also really well made—crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. I love that they’re not greasy from fat, and they even have that crisp water chestnut texture. Be sure to try a slice.

This piece of pork with cartilage is insanely crispy—mixing in different textures like this is a great touch.

Don’t forget to order a bowl of bottle gourd rice noodle soup. Here at Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou, they use medium-thick rice noodles paired with the refreshing taste of bottle gourd—a flavor you won’t find anywhere else.

Besides the specialty dishes on the counter, there are also 大肠包小肠 (sausage-wrapped rice sausages) sold next to the stall. But the owner mentioned that with Mid-Autumn Festival coming up, they’ve had so many sausage and 大肠 (intestine) pre-orders that the sausage stand wasn’t open when we visited. Be sure to come back another time to try it. Overall, the flavors here are truly unique to Chiayi. Next time you visit Chiayi, besides trying turkey rice, Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou is also an excellent choice. And a heads-up: go early. They open at 2 p.m. and are usually sold out by 4:30 p.m.!

Chiayi Food Info

Hei Ren Lu Shu Rou｜Facebook

Address: No. 84, Gonghe Rd., East District, Chiayi City
Phone: 05-2256661
Business Hours: 14:00–18:00 (Closed Mondays, or until sold out)

Mimi Han
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