Locals recommend 4 must-visit restaurants in Chikuma—must-try udon and Japanese-style shaved ice!

Text and photos byXiaohu’s Dream Food Blog

Traveling, to me, has always been more about food than sights. Strangely enough, my favorite isn’t any grand meal but the everyday eateries frequented by locals. That’s why I always try to ask locals for restaurant recommendations whenever I visit a new place. This article is all about sharing the delicious local cuisine in Chikuma.

The most famous food in Nagano’s Chikuma City is actually “apricots,” but I’ll dedicate a separate post to that later. Today, I’ll take you to try some of the local delicacies highly recommended by the Chikuma Tourism Bureau. It all starts at our accommodation in “Kamishanada Onsen.” The best way to get to Kamishanada Onsen is to take the Shinano Railway (しなの) and get off at Tokura Station.

Tokura Onsen is a popular hot spring area where many visitors to Chikuma City choose to stay. Its old street charm makes it perfect for a leisurely stroll. The most famous eatery here is “Kobakuh,” frequented not only by tourists but also by locals.

Aside from the counter seating, every dining area here has a kotatsu (heated table), and dining right in front of a fire pit is an experience Taiwanese friends might not often get. Isn’t the scene quite amusing?

On the other side, there’s seating where you sit cross-legged on the floor, with a floor-heated kotatsu underneath for warmth in winter or even cooking. Above it hangs a hook sturdy enough to hold a kettle.

Tyler Lynch, who brought us here, said this place is a favorite for locals’ second rounds of drinks, and it’s also known for something amazing and famous called “oshiborioushidoridon,” which you absolutely must try in Chikuma or you might as well not have come.

“Oshiborioushidoridon” can be translated into Chinese as “radish juice udon.” Legend has it that people in the region started eating this dish during the Sengoku period of Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and “Kobakuh” is the representative restaurant for this dish.

It’s said that the type of radish used, called “nezumi daikon” (mouse radish), is particularly spicy… Only this variety can make the “oshiborioushidoridon” spicy enough to be satisfying, and this radish variety seems to grow only in Chikuma. So, this regional specialty can only be had here—how can you not try it when visiting?

Of course, Kobakuh serves other dishes too, mostly familiar Japanese fare plus some local specialties.

Upon arrival, they serve a small plate of miso cucumbers as a drinking snack or noodle side. Then they bring out four small bowls… yet no udon in sight—but the smell of “radish” already fills the air… The other three bowls contain miso, chopped green onions, and dancing bonito flakes.

Soon after, they bring out this bowl of cooked udon. The portion size is based on the number of diners, with each serving costing 1,000 yen (includes the four side condiments and small appetizer mentioned earlier).

First, our seasoned guide Tyler Lynch demonstrates the proper way to eat: scoop a suitable amount of udon into your bowl, then pour in about 80% full of broth.

Then add the radish juice, bonito flakes, miso, and green onions. How much you add depends on your taste, but I suggest starting with a light hand—especially with the star ingredient, “radish juice,” as it’s really really really really spicy… way spicier than you’d imagine, and the spice carries a strong radish tang. Tyler Lynch only chuckled and told us to balance the heat with a bit of “miso” if it’s too intense, while adding more bonito flakes or green onions to taste. In the end, the udon is super chewy and delicious—and afterward, you must exclaim, “Karai!” (spicy!)—just like how we encourage foreigners trying stinky tofu to shout “So smelly!”—it’s practically a “courtesy” in food culture, lol.

The second ramen shop I visited was one recommended by Mr. Hayashi from the Chikuma Tourism Bureau. Having lived in Kamishanada Onsen since childhood, he basically grew up eating this ramen XD. If he says it’s good, nobody’s likely to disagree (laughs).

I remember arriving here around 10 a.m. after my onsen bath. As expected, the place was packed, and I waited about ten minutes for a seat.

The back area of the shop is great for groups of three or five friends to dine and chat together, radiating a kind of indescribable family warmth—even though it was a bit hot outside at the time.

The menu is simple: ramen and fried dumplings. The ramen broth is mainly miso-based, along with a soy-sauce-flavored Chinese-style ramen.

I only noticed after ordering that the wall displays say their spicy miso ramen is extra hot… would’ve tried it to see just how spicy XD.

The char siu ramen is 980 yen, and I added “white leeks for 150 yen.” The white leeks were so plentiful you could barely see the noodles. Let’s talk about those leeks first—they’re generally sweet and not overly pungent, but the texture is a bit tough. Soaking them in the broth helps a lot.

The char siu I accidentally blurred in the photo had good oiliness and sweetness, though it was sliced a bit too thin, which took away some of the chewy joy. But overall, it’s the kind of char siu I like—nice and fatty. The half-boiled egg I didn’t photograph was decent, though the yolk was broken on one side XD.

The noodles had more bite than they looked, with a slight alkaline taste reminiscent of Taiwanese oily noodles—not bad.

I’ve never been a fan of miso ramen, usually because it’s too salty—but somehow, this one didn’t leave that impression. Instead, it balanced well with the other flavors. The broth also had a nice depth of umami without being overly heavy, and the overall taste was quite approachable.

As for the fried dumplings, the filling still had that texture I’m not fond of, but the wrappers were nicely crispy and fragrant.

This next spot, “Ebara Shokudo,” with its big rice cooker at the entrance, was also recommended by Mr. Hayashi. According to fellow tourism bureau staffer Mr. Maruyama, this is also a must-visit eatery when he comes to Kamishanada Onsen.

Most of the seating here requires sitting cross-legged, except for the counter area near the entrance, which can seat 5–6 people.

The dish recommended by Mr. Hayashi is “tonkatsu N...<”900元，另外也有一些日式的中华料理可以选择，甚至是下酒的炒菜类，就像台湾常见的小食堂。

The mixed rice Mr. Maruyama ordered actually looked quite similar to what you’d see in Taiwan, though since I didn’t try it, I can’t speak to the taste.

My friend ordered Chinese-style ramen—the soy-based broth was pretty good, but it got saltier the more you drank.

The main attraction, of course, was the “tonkatsu (pork cutlet)”<”附一碟小菜和相当不错喝的味噌汤。其实当天本来林先生是要带我们去吃一家他说很厉害、从小吃到大的“蒜泥猪排N<”，但因为当天公休才转战这间同样是山上田温泉区的人气食堂。

The meat was lean but still tender and easy to eat, soft and not lacking in sweetness. But personally, I prefer a juicier, oilier cutlet—even though this one was really quite good, especially the crispy, moist, and smooth batter, which was absolutely delicious.

And the best part of this pork cutlet was definitely eating it with the half-cooked egg yolk. The well-balanced sweet-and-salty sauce, familiar to many, had just the right touch—probably with a hint of that lovely sweetness from mirin. It was insanely delicious.

The last stop, Shio-kawa Confectionery, is a century-old shop in the hot spring area and a must-visit souvenir spot for tourists. The most famous and impressive item is, of course, the “onsen manju (hot spring steamed buns).”

BUT besides the famous onsen manju, I actually preferred the light, slightly Western-style café here, which had the vibe of an “XX-ken” (traditional Japanese eatery), serving early-Japanese-Western fusion breakfasts, even afternoon tea and desserts.

As soon as you walk in, you’ll find the area where people buy souvenirs. In addition to the freshly made onsen manju, there are also traditional Japanese sweets, like “mochi” filled with various fillings.

In the summer, they also sell various flavors of Japanese kakigori (shaved ice)—milk, strawberry, lemon, cantaloupe, and other fruit flavors. While the variety can’t quite match the excitement of Taiwanese shaved ice, sometimes I think Taiwanese shaved ice isn’t about the ice but the toppings, XXD.

The most wonderful part of this shop is the dining area on the left as you enter. As I mentioned earlier, it has the classic “XX-ken” decor. The place is filled with elderly locals or tourists looking to relive the Japanese-Western fusion breakfast experience.

There’s a back area that resembles the old-style Taiwanese ice cream parlors. Apparently, this small private room is often reserved for gatherings of locals from the hot spring area.

I also spotted a super nostalgic old mahjong arcade game here—if it weren’t for that auntie playing it, I would’ve totally wanted to give it a try, XD.

Honestly, I really, really wanted to try the buttered toast and coffee—they’re the signature breakfast items at these Japanese-Western fusion cafés. Unfortunately, there wasn’t enough time, and I was already full, so I just went straight for the main goal of this trip: the “apricot sundae” ↓.

It’s called an apricot sundae, but it’s really just regular ice cream with apricot syrup drizzled on top—not made with actual apricot flavoring in the ice cream itself. Even so, I have to say this apricot sundae was insanely delicious. But to be honest, it’s not so much the ice cream that’s amazing—it’s the “apricot syrup” that’s absolutely divine.

The apricot sundae dessert is the same idea, just with added whipped cream and a generous helping of fresh apricots in the middle, making it even more flavorful and layered. But if you’re not a fan of whipped cream, you might want to think twice.

The final onsen manju were freshly made, so the packaging still had a bit of moisture on it. The outer bun had a lovely brown sugar flavor, and the texture was super soft. The red bean filling inside was a bit sweet but not as overly sugary as others I’ve had—which even convinced me, someone who never buys manju, to get a box, XD.

Below are the details for the four shops, all located within Yamanouchi Onsen. No matter which hot spring hotel you’re staying at, you can probably walk there. Later, I’ll share more about the charm and warmth of the people here.

Kohaku (古波久)
1-44-4 Yamanouchi Onsen, Chikuma City, Nagano Prefecture, Phone: 050-5890-8614, Business Hours: 11:30–13:30, 18:00–24:00. Tabelog Rating: 3.12

Chikuma City Menyashita X Janjan
2-16-7 Yamanouchi Onsen, Chikuma City, Phone: 026-275-0454, Business Hours: 9:00–1:00 AM

Ebara Shokudo
1-34-6 Yamanouchi Onsen, Chikuma City, Nagano Prefecture, Phone: 026-275-1756, Business Hours: 11:30–14:00 / 17:00–21:00

Shio-kawa Confectionery
1-70-7 Yamanouchi Onsen, Chikuma City, Nagano Prefecture, Phone: 026-275-1147, Business Hours: 8:00–21:00

"Koharu’s Food Dream Net
If “eating” is just about filling your stomach, then “food” would be way too boring~~~"