In-depth Travel in Miaoli: Explore the Ancient Town and One of the Three Great Gardens – "Hua Tao Kiln"

Shuntian Temple is tucked away in the alleys of “Fangli Ancient Town.” Though it looks small, it has withstood over two hundred years of history. Whether it’s the surrounding walls, the floor tiles, or the simple yet ornate beams, the historical traces remain intact.

Whether it’s the thresholds or the window frames, they are all made of solid camphor wood. The bricks used back then were fired locally, and the carvings are exquisitely preserved. From the phrase “Auspicious Peace and Joy” inscribed above, you can learn about the temple’s history. Actually, the temple isn’t just an old building—it’s also a place where important historical figures are commemorated. If you have time, you should definitely come and take a look_____^/

Fangli Creek Official Ferry Monument (Ferry Pavilion)

This official ferry has a little story too. On the right side of the stone tablet it reads: Starting in the year of Dingyou in the Daoguang era (i.e., the 17th year of Daoguang, 1837), an official ferry service was established, with labor costs covered by the government. Passengers could cross the river anytime without paying a single cent. Violators would be severely punished if reported.

The meaning: To prevent price gouging, the government hired ferrymen to provide free crossings. So there were actually free shuttle services back in the day XD But wait, there wasn’t actually an official ferry on Fangli Creek before. It turns out that after a major flood, the original official ferry from Dajia Creek was washed here, and later someone changed the characters from “Dajia” to “Fangli,” thus naturally turning it into the Fangli Creek Official Ferry. It was re-established outside Shuntian Temple and has become the first stop for many out-of-town visitors exploring Fangli Ancient Town.

Fangli Ancient Town

Phone: 037-862100
Address: Fangli Village, Yuanli Township, Miaoli County
[Public Transport]
Train: Take the Coastal Line of the Taiwan Railways to Yuanli Station, then walk about 14 minutes to reach Fangli Ancient Town.
Bus: Take Miaoli Bus to Fangli Station, then walk about 5 minutes to reach Fangli Ancient Town.

Second Stop: Futian Community

After leaving the Fangli community, everyone followed the guide to Futian Community. In the past, Futian Community was known as one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Yuanli—“Early Harvest at Futian”—where endless rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see. Scattered throughout the community are century-old ancestral houses of various sizes, greatly enriching its historical and cultural atmosphere. The rice paddies here have thick, fertile mud, and the irrigation water comes entirely from the unpolluted upper reaches of the Da’an River, resulting in rice grains that are plump, fragrant, chewy, and firm—truly living up to its reputation as the “Rice Granary of Yuanli.”

Listening to the guide’s detailed introduction, Xiaojie learned yet another profound humanistic story. The development of this community can be traced back 300 years. Because it was developed early on, it has also accumulated a rich historical and cultural foundation. In addition to the rice industry culture, historic old houses are the most important cultural assets of Futian Community. Examples include: Mr. Liao’s Temple, Huang Residence, Zhu Residence, Liang Residence, Zheng Family Old House, and so on. The old houses with red bricks, vermilion tiles, and carved flowers are all uniquely distinctive and worthy of preservation and inheritance. Against the backdrop of lush green rice fields, the Zheng Family Old House exudes an antique charm that evokes a sense of nostalgia.

Today, our lunch is traditional harvest rice, served in large bowls—doesn’t it feel special? ~ In the past, during the rural rice harvest season, farm owners would invite many relatives and friends to help out. Since harvesting rice was paid work, the farm mistresses would prepare a big pot of rice, paired with available ingredients to make a communal meal to fill everyone’s stomachs. The dishes typically included boiled chicken, braised pork, dried bamboo shoots, and greens... Among them, what impressed Xiaojie the most was the shark fish cake.

Made with small sharks (finless sharks), mixed with ground pork, pickled radish, white garlic, and seasonings, it is pressed into flat circles and pan-fried into fragrant and chewy shark fish cakes.
The unique texture is delicious—you’ll definitely keep eating bite after bite; it’s super tasty with rice!

It’s truly a feast for the senses—color, aroma, and taste all in one. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it~ Everyone enjoyed it so much (laughs…)

Next up is a traditional children’s toy not often seen in urban areas—the bamboo bird whistle. This is a common plaything among rural kids. When water is added inside the whistle and you blow air into it, the disturbance on the water surface creates a pleasant sound resembling birdsong. It’s a really fun children’s toy!

Some kids, being more dexterous, finished quickly, while others, like Xiaojie, didn’t manage to complete theirs even when time was up. But we all had a great time, and the master even gave each child an extra set of materials to take home and try making it themselves ^____^ The entire community environment is kept very tidy, giving this traditional rural village a fresh new look. Everyone is welcome to visit and explore when you have the chance.

Futian Community Development Association

Phone: 0922-050243
Address: No. 133, Lane 11, Futian Li, Yuanli Town

Third Stop: Huatao Kiln Cultural Garden

Huatao Kiln is one of Taiwan’s three major gardens. The other two are “Nanyuan” in Hsinchu and “Lin Family Garden” in Banqiao. Although Taiwan’s existing three famous gardens are not extremely ancient in history, their vast land area and exquisite architectural craftsmanship are no less impressive than other century-old buildings. Aside from Yuanli Ancient Town and Huatao Kiln, if you have more time, you might also want to visit the rainbow-like Shanjiao Elementary School, the dormitory complexes from the Japanese colonial period, Jinliangxing Sightseeing Brick Factory, Shanshui Rice, and the Organic Rice Farm...

The park provides parking for small vehicles, so you don’t need to worry about finding a parking spot if you drive yourself… However, as the road leading into the park is quite steep over a short section, large tour buses cannot drive directly into the park—you’ll need to walk a short distance. After parking, walk forward and you’ll find the ticket office.Ticket: NT$250 per person (may vary depending on the experience; basic entry is NT$250)，Guided tours are usually only arranged for groups of 30 or more on regular days.

Here we are at the entrance of Huatao Kiln. Right from the start, you can clearly feel the garden landscaping, brick architecture, poetic, and artistic atmosphere~ (I love it 'd) It instantly lifts your mood~

The garden design of Huatao Kiln is truly unique. Instead of imitating the luxurious gardens of Chinese nobility and merchants, it skillfully reflects the aesthetics and craftsmanship of Taiwanese residential landscapes over the past 400 years—【red brick walls built with Dutch bond masonry】, paired with 【Han-style wooden doors】, covered with 【Japanese-style black tiles】, and 【indigenous Taiwanese wall vegetation】, telling the story of Taiwan’s ethnic groups across generations and their integration, forming a distinctive vernacular-style garden. (Quoted from the Huatao Kiln official website)

Throughout the tour, you can see handmade pottery products. In this garden, you’ll spot creatively designed garden scenes made of poetry and bricks everywhere. They are all produced in this rare handmade climbing kiln, which is named for its staircase-like shape!

Walking around the park, you can feel the care put into maintaining every corner. There’s also a DIY pottery section where you can try your hand at clay modeling. It’s perfect for a half-day eco-tour or a full-day visit here.

It really gives off a serene and tranquil vibe. Xiaojie feels the garden landscaping here is truly thoughtful 'd. The origin of Huatao Kiln’s name actually comes from the three characters “花” (flower), “陶” (pottery), and “窑” (kiln). “华” is the ancient form of “花” (flower), “陶” refers to the pottery vessels that hold flowers, and “窑” is, of course, the brick kiln where pottery is fired.

Next, we followed the guide into the botanical garden area… This area is restricted, so you can’t enter without a staff member leading the way~ The botanical garden is protected, and the whole ecosystem feels very pristine and mysterious!! Let’s take a look at the captivating beauty of Huatao Kiln now~

I can only say the guide’s way of introducing things is really lively and fun, with plenty of unexpected ecological insights along the way, and the gentle slopes make it anything but boring (laughs…) It’s definitely a great outdoor activity for families.

Xiaojie feels that Huatao Kiln spreads out along the mountain, and it’s really expansive (about 10 hectares in area). The guided tour from start to finish takes about 2 hours. It’s recommended to wear comfortable shoes for walking~ And remember to pause from time to time, take it slow, and sit down to fully appreciate the beautiful sights before you…

Take in the romantic scenery that looks like a postcard. It’s also a great place for photos, and after taking some, your mood will truly be lifted~ Xiaojie genuinely thinks Huatao Kiln is incredibly beautiful. It really is a place that helps you find inner peace. Before coming here, I thought the ticket price was a bit steep—I was wrong. Stepping into this garden, I realized it’s a real treasure. It’s absolutely worth every penny. Everyone, quickly jot this down, GO GO GO ((%y(?)%y)?&j)

Huatao Kiln Cultural Garden

Address: No. 31, Lane 2, Nanshi Li, Yuanli Town, Miaoli County
Phone: (037)743-611
Business Hours: 09:30–16:30 (Closed on Mondays and Chinese New Year’s Eve)
Ticket: NT$250–NT$930 (depending on the experience activities)