Hidden Yunnan cuisine in the mountains of Qingjing — “Stuffed Fish” bursting with spices

Text & Photos /Gui Xiaosun

When it comes to must-try restaurants in Qingjing, the first one that comes to mind is ‘Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine.’ Even before I started writing articles seriously, I had noted this place on my way up to Hehuanshan... and from then on, I’d often eat here whenever I went up there.

Especially the 【Stuffed Fish】—a dish I just can’t forget. Maybe it’s because I love scallions, ginger, garlic, and other spices, but I’m particularly fond of this unique stuffed fish. The flavor is truly addictive—you just can’t stop eating it.

Let me remind you here—don’t assume it won’t be cold in Qingjing in the summer... The day I visited ‘Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine,’ it was so cold I ended up waiting in the car until it was my turn. The temperature outside had dropped to 16°C, and with an empty stomach, I almost caught a cold XD. This just goes to show you should bring a jacket when heading up the mountain. Me, in shorts and a short-sleeved shirt? I was freezing @@

Truth be told, there aren’t many restaurants in Qingjing—you could probably count them on one hand. Places like ‘Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine’ and the nearby ‘Good Chicken Lady’ are both well-known online. If you arrive late without a reservation, you’ll likely have to wait about an hour. We were lucky to arrive around 5 PM, so we only had to wait about half an hour before we could dig in ~ XD

‘Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine’ has a very recognizable building and even has its own parking lot, though you might need some luck when it gets crowded. The view here is great—you can see Qingjing’s beautiful mountain mist from their scenic platform. Whether it’s shrouded in clouds or bathed in sunshine, it’s lovely.

Even though it was drizzling that day, the overcast and rainy atmosphere had a different kind of charm. The cool air somehow slowed down our steps and breath... Standing on the viewing platform and gazing into the distance... the mist drifted naturally toward us. That sense of ease could easily move you to the core.

After half an hour, we hurried back from the car to the restaurant, ready to dig in. It seemed like they’d changed the menu—we can imagine prices probably went up too. I remember the Stuffed Fish used to be 400 NT for one fish, but now it’s 500 NT. But it’s not every day we make it up here, and I missed it so much—I decided not to think too much and just ordered it. Plus, eating fish always feels a bit less stressful XD

The two of us sat at the counter on the first floor—it was our first time sitting there. Previously, we always went upstairs, where there’s more space and more tables. Sitting right at the counter this time felt pretty special. A lot of people waiting in line kept glancing at our food XD. I can imagine it was super mouthwatering, especially when you’re really hungry~~~

Dong dong dong~ Our ‘Stuffed Fish’ is here!! This fish is actually quite big. Even though the price isn’t cheap, it’s actually perfect for four people. We ordered it because we were craving it so much, and also because it’s not something we get to eat often with this much fish XD

As soon as it was served, we saw the fish tied up with string. I imagined that the fish was first stuffed with those delicious spices, then tied up and deep-fried. It was fried just right, letting the fish, scallions, ginger, garlic, and chili all meld together... When we opened it up, that aroma was exactly what I missed. The fragrant smell made my mouth water instantly.

I absolutely love eating fish like this, especially with such a unique sauce. I’d say I ate about two-thirds of the fish by myself. When I was a kid, my dad used to fish and bring them home because of his job. We ate fish and squid all the time back then—the taste of that seafood might’ve stayed in my heart forever, making me love seafood so much~

And they also serve this unique Sour Bamboo Shoot Chicken Soup. I love drinking delicious chicken soup in the mountains—the broth is always especially rich and savory. Add in the cold weather and a stove bubbling away... it really feels warm and comforting.

The broth of this sour bamboo shoot chicken soup isn’t overly sour, but has a slight tang amid its sweetness... it makes you want bowl after bowl. The thin slices of sour bamboo shoots are barely sour at all—they’ve probably all infused into the soup. The chicken is tender and soft in every bite, really delicious. The pieces are just the right size, so there’s no pressure while eating XD

We also ordered this dish called ‘Cold Mixed Slices’—it’s actually wild boar skin. I love sour and spicy flavors, which are especially appetizing. It makes you want to keep eating, feeling refreshed without ever getting tired of it. The wild boar skin is almost transparent, crispy yet chewy and bouncy. My friend basically focused on this dish alone.

Of course, we couldn’t miss a plate of high-mountain cabbage with this feast of dishes. It’s a specialty of Qingjing XD. The two of us ordered this whole table of food—I think it came to about 1100 NT? We ate to our hearts’ content and were completely satisfied~

Whenever I come to Qingjing, I always eat these delicious dishes—they’re flavors from memory and also local specialties. Even if I’ve been here many times, I’ll still come back. This time, I’m especially recording it—I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve visited ‘Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine.’

And that night in Qingjing. Sharing it all with you~ ^~^

Lu Ma’s Yunnan Bai Ethnic Cuisine
Business Hours: 11:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Kitchen closes at 8:00 PM)
Address: No. 210-2-1, Renhe Rd., Ren’ai Township, Nantou County
Phone: 049 280 3876

［Enjoy life, never boring. Gui Xiaosun］、FB