Mount Zhazi

　　Introduction Mount Zhazi stands at an elevation of 7,543 meters and is located in the middle section of the Himalayas, within Dingri County, Shigatse Prefecture, Tibet. Named "North Peak" due to its position north of Mount Everest, it is connected to Everest via the North Col. On October 14, 1982, a West German team made the first ascent of Mount Zhazi via the southeast ridge. In 1986, a Japanese team pioneered a climbing route on the north face. Transportation Southeast Ridge Route: Three camps are set up along the southeast ridge from the advance base camp. The route features gentle slopes and a relatively simple path, but it is long in distance. In spring, there is less snow, but more ice and mixed ice-rock terrain, increasing the level of danger and requiring higher technical skills from climbers. In autumn, deeper snow leads to greater physical exertion. The southeast ridge is better suited for climbing in autumn. Northeast Face Route: Also uses three camps. From the advance base camp, it goes through the North Peak Glacier to the base of the north face and then climbs directly upward. The North Peak Glacier has many crevasses and the route is more complex, but it is shorter in distance and faster compared to the southeast ridge route. Avalanche risk is higher in spring when snow is deep in certain sections. In spring, there is less snow, hanging glaciers are less developed, and crevasses are more visible and easier to identify. In autumn, deeper snow and developed hanging glaciers increase the risk of avalanches. The northeast face route is more suitable for climbing in spring.

　　 Shigatse, Tibet