Nanluoguxiang

　　Nanluoguxiang is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Beijing and is also included among the planned 25 old city preservation zones. It runs from north to south, starting at East Gulou Street in the north and ending at East Di’anmen Street in the south, spanning a total length of 786 meters with a width of 8 meters. Constructed during the same period as the Yuan Dynasty capital (1267), it is China’s only traditional courtyard residential area that has been completely preserved with the original layout of Yuan Dynasty hutongs. It is the largest, highest-ranking, and most resource-rich chessboard-style traditional residential district.

　　　　In the urban layout of the Yuan Dynasty capital, characterized by “ancestral temples on the left, altars on the right, facing the front and markets behind,” Nanluoguxiang formed part of the “marketplace behind.” During the Yuan Dynasty, with Nanluoguxiang as the central axis, the eastern area belonged to Zhaohui Fang, and the western area to Jinggong Fang. In the Ming Dynasty, it belonged to Zhaohui Jinggong Fang. During the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was part of Xianghuang Banner, and from the end of the Guangxu reign to the Xuantong reign, it fell under Neizuo Sanqu. In the Republican era, it was part of Neiwu District. There are eight hutongs neatly aligned on both the east and west sides, forming a “fishbone” pattern, or resembling a “centipede.” Hence, Nanluoguxiang is also known as “Centipede Alley.” From south to north, the eight hutongs on the west side are Fuxiang Hutong, Suoyi Hutong, Yuer Hutong, Mao’er Hutong, Jingyang Hutong, Shajing Hutong, Heizhima Hutong, and Qiangulouyuan Hutong; those on the east side are Chaodou Hutong, Banchang Hutong, Dongmianhua Hutong, Beibingmasi Hutong, Qinlao Hutong, Qianyuansi Hutong, Houyuansi Hutong, and Ju’er Hutong. These hutongs had no official names during the Yuan Dynasty; their names gradually evolved after the Ming Dynasty. For example, Ju’er Hutong was called Juzi Hutong in the Ming Dynasty, later changed to Juzi Hutong, and was not referred to as Ju’er Hutong until the Xuantong reign of the Qing Dynasty, continuing to this day. The li-fang system was the basic unit of residential organization in ancient China and a fundamental element of urban planning. In the pre-Qin period, it was called “li” or “lü.” Starting from the Northern Wei Dynasty, the term “fang” appeared. In Chang’an during the Tang Dynasty, the then-largest city in the world, there were 108 fang. The planning of the Yuan Dynasty capital continued the li-fang system, dividing the city into 50 fang, with wide and straight streets between them, resembling a chessboard.

　　　　During the Ming Dynasty, Beijing was divided into 28 fang, with two merged and referred to as “Zhaohui Jinggong Fang.” In the Qing Dynasty, it belonged to Xianghuang Banner. Nanluoguxiang was once called Luoguo Alley, but in the “Complete City Map” drawn in the 15th year of Qianlong (1750), it was renamed Nanluoguxiang.

　　　　The current Nanluoguxiang neighborhood is bordered by East Gulou Street to the north, East Di’anmen Street to the south, Di’anmen Outer Street to the west, and Jiaodaokou South Street to the east. This rectangular block enclosed by the four streets corresponds to two fang of the Yuan Dynasty capital. With Nanluoguxiang as the boundary, the east side is “Zhaohui Fang,” and the west side is “Jinggong Fang,” making Nanluoguxiang the dividing alley between the two.

　　The li-fang structure of Chang’an in the Tang Dynasty has long vanished, and the layout of the Yuan Dynasty capital’s fang has also undergone tremendous changes over more than 800 years of history. However, the Nanluoguxiang area still retains the historical remnants of the Yuan Dynasty fang exceptionally well. The hutong layout remains highly intact, and the various types of mansions and residences within the hutongs are richly diverse. It can truly be considered a well-preserved “jade” of Beijing’s ancient capital charm.

　　　　On a rare cool, drizzly afternoon during Beijing’s sweltering summer, I visited Nanluoguxiang once again. In recent years, Nanluoguxiang has drawn the attention of fashion enthusiasts and international tourists, mainly because, starting from the new century, many bars have spontaneously emerged along this ancient street. It has now become another bar street in Beijing, following Sanlitun and Shichahai.

　　　　Some say Sanlitun Bar Street is colorful, Shichahai Bar Street is dark red, while Nanluoguxiang Bar Street is emerald green. Such descriptions may refer not only to natural colors but perhaps also to their distinct cultural connotations. Each hutong here has a rich cultural heritage, and every residence tells an old story.

Nanluoguxiang isAAAAa-rated attraction