Dongmianhua Hutong

　　Dongmianhua Hutong isn’t deep, yet its name can be found on Beijing’s map. Like the neighboring Gongwusi Hutong, Maor Hutong, and Yu’ensi Hutong, it is about a zhang wide with a cement road, and most of the buildings on both sides are traditional-style residences. Peeking into a small courtyard, you’ll see what looks like an imposing gate from the Qing Dynasty, half-closed, with finely carved wooden door knockers visible from the front and solemn stone door knockers standing upright—there must have been horse tethering posts outside the gate back in the day.

　　Looking inside, you’ll see scattered siheyuan (courtyard houses), with several small red-brick kitchens of various sizes built around. Each of the four directions—east, west, south, and north—is home to one household. There’s a grapevine in the yard, with clusters of deep purple, heavy grapes hanging down, tempting to the eye. Looking up, you’ll notice the faded painted panels embedded under the eaves, their narrow surfaces displaying scenes that seem to come from some classic tale. The bricks of the old houses are as thick as thread-bound ancient books. Approaching the house near the gate, you’ll see ornate beams and painted rafters, with dragons dancing and clawing on the screen wall. Scenes like this are not uncommon among the hutongs of Beijing.

　　The origin of Dongmianhua Hutong, like all hutongs in Beijing, has its stories and legends, though they’re hard to verify. But no matter which direction you walk—east, west, south, or north—you’ll find the former residences of many notable figures. The small courtyards are somewhat modern-style bungalows, seemingly built to imitate the structure of siheyuan, with guardrails on the roofs from which you can look into the distance, though your view is blocked by surrounding buildings. Among the high-rises, the clusters of ancient houses stand out even more, highlighting the traces of history.

　　Looking down along the hutong’s guardrail, the scenery at both ends of the alley comes into full view. You’ll notice the hutong’s self-imposed “traffic rules”—cars yield to motorcycles, motorcycles yield to bicycles, and bicycles yield to those on foot. Nestled in this hutong is a highly renowned academy—the Central Academy of Drama. Locally, it’s simply called “Zhongxi.”

　　Dongmianhua Hutong is one of the most ordinary hutongs in Beijing. People from all over—north, south, from Urumqi to Hong Kong—come and go through the alley.

Dongmianhua Hutong