Zizhishan Mountain in Jiuzhen

　　“A mountain need not be high — it is famous so long as there is a deity on it.” This oft-quoted line from Liu Yuxi’s renowned essay “Inscription on the Humble Dwelling” of the Tang Dynasty resonates for its elegance and profound meaning. Read aloud, it flows smoothly and carries deep significance. Tucked away in one of the fertile corners of southeastern Fujian, Zhangpu’s Wushi Zizhishan Mountain is a living embodiment of Liu Yuxi’s poetic vision. Since ancient times, this mountain has been blessed with extraordinary landscapes and gifted people, making it a true treasure land.

　　 Drive about 20 kilometers east from Zhangpu County and you’ll arrive at Jiuzhen, known as the “Millennium Port Ancient Town.” Entering the Wushi Mazu Tourist Area here marks the beginning of your close encounter with Zizhishan Mountain. Also called Dragon Mountain, Zizhishan lies to the north of Wushi. The mountain boasts striking peaks and bizarre rocks, including the Zizhi, Que, and Shuangjian peaks. The region is rich in fertile land and abundant resources. The hardworking people of Wushi have cultivated fresh vegetables, plump rice, and turned the surrounding hillsides into a paradise of fruits. Here, lychees blush red, bananas stay green, sugarcane stalks grow tall, and peach and plum trees flourish. It is often said that “lovely scenery is a feast for the eyes,” but in Zizhishan, such beauty is literally edible — none more mouthwatering than the heavy clusters of lychees hanging from the branches. Whether around village homes or along mountain paths, you’ll find countless fruits gently swaying in the breeze. During the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era, Monk Jiuyun of Ziyun Temple also planted numerous lychee trees on Zizhishan. According to the Fujian General Annals, Zhangzhou was famed for its lychees, and among them, those from Zhangpu — especially from Wushi’s Zizhishan — were the best. Varieties such as Xiangpaozi and Masha jiao, noted for their “sweet taste, beautiful color, large size, and small pits,” were designated as tribute fruits for Emperor Longqing. Among the many lychee cultivars, Wushi lychees ranked among the finest, thus earning the title “Queen of Lychees.”

　　 Nestled among seas of lychee trees and blessed with sheltering terrain, Wushi Zizhishan has since ancient times been a sacred site where Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism coexisted peacefully in harmony. Today, within less than one square kilometer on the southern slopes of Zizhishan, you can find clustered temples including the Wenchang Palace, Wanggong Temple, Zizhi Temple, and Wushi Mazu Temple — an impressive concentration of religious sites that truly takes one’s breath away.

　　 Walking up the mountain from the right rear of Wushi Mazu Temple, you follow stone steps that wind along the contours of the hill. Bizarre rocks are scattered everywhere, and nestled among them is the Wanggong Temple, dedicated to Xie An, the prime minister of Emperor Xiaowu of the Eastern Jin Dynasty during the Eastern Jin period. Also known as Huigong Temple or Xie Dongshan Temple, it commemorates a pivotal moment in Chinese history. In 383 AD, Fu Jian, emperor of the Former Qin — which had already unified the Yellow River basin — personally led a million-strong army by land and sea to invade the Eastern Jin, hoping to sweep through the dynasty like autumn winds blowing away dead leaves, thereby unifying the north and south. At this critical moment of national peril, the pro-war faction of the Eastern Jin, led by Xie An, rose to defend the country. Recommended by Xie An, his brother Xie Shi and nephew Xie Xuan commanded 80,000 elite troops of the Beifu Army to defeat Fu Jian’s massive forces at the Battle of Fei River. This victory became one of China’s most legendary examples of winning against greater odds, giving rise to idioms such as “every bush and tree looks like an enemy (on Bagong Mountain),” “wind sounds like crane cries,” and “rise again from Dongshan (East Mountain).” The battle saved the Eastern Jin from collapse and ushered in a long period of north-south division. To honor Xie An’s legacy, temples were built in his name. Over dynasties, he was conferred titles such as Guanghui Prince, Guardian King, Guanghui Sage King, Xianji Sage King, and Guangying Sage King. According to the Zhangpu County Annals, Chen Yuanguang, the founding general of Tang-era Zhangzhou, brought incense from his hometown in Gushi, Henan, and built a temple in Zhangpu where the 58 surnames of his soldiers jointly worshipped Xie An. Since then, Wanggong Temples have been erected in many parts of Zhangpu. In the main hall of Wanggong Temple, a couplet still reads: “With Guanghui’s majesty, his founding deeds for Zhangzhou are immortalized in history; As an honored king, his virtuous governance echoes through millennia.”

　　 About 30 meters from Wanggong Temple lies the Wenchang Palace, dedicated to the Wenchang Emperor, deity of literature and scholarship. Originally built in the late Yuan and early Ming Dynasties, when private schools flourished, the palace was erected to worship the Wenchang Emperor, praying for academic success and examination glory. Later, with the decline of private education, the temple fell into disrepair and collapsed, though its ruins remained. In early 1998, at the initiative of Master Miaozhi, a monk from Fujian’s Shou Temple, the Wenchang Palace was rebuilt on the former site of the Ming Dynasty Zizhi Academy, with Master Miaozhi personally breaking ground. After more than three years of effort, the palace emerged, a resplendent two-story structure spanning 13 meters in width and 12.5 meters in depth. From its vantage, one can gaze southeastward over azure skies and clear waters, or look down upon the surrounding sea of lychee and banana trees — a truly delightful sight.

　　 To the right of Wanggong Temple stands the Zizhi Temple, established in the 13th year of the Shaoxing reign during the Southern Song Dynasty (1143 AD, corrected from erroneous original 1552), founded by eminent monk Xike. Nearly 500 years old, it enjoys widespread fame both in China and abroad and remains highly active, with flourishing incense offerings. Built between two massive rocks, the temple’s main hall uses natural stone caves as side chambers. Facilities include monks’ quarters, a dining hall, the Mahavira Hall, and the Kṣitigarbha Hall, covering a total construction area of over 2,000 square meters.

　　 Like the saying goes, “One leaf heralds autumn.” From the various historical relics and temple layouts preserved on Zizhishan, one can imagine the mountain in its heyday as a scene of vibrant prosperity — “peach, plum, and Zizhi blossoms blooming in unison; voices of Buddhism, Taoism, and literary scholars in lively debate.”

　　 Historically, Zizhishan was not only filled with the sounds of morning bells and evening drums, but also the resonant tones of students reading aloud — it was a place of learning for aspiring scholars throughout the ages. In the mid-Ming Dynasty, the Zizhi Academy was established next to Zizhi Temple, where renowned teachers and monks lectured, dedicated to nurturing talent. According to the Zhangpu County Annals and stone inscriptions, during the Ming and Qing Dynasties alone, 17 individuals who studied here passed the imperial examinations to become jinshi (advanced scholars), 11 of whom were from the Lin family of Wushi. The Lin family also produced 25 juren (recommended men), 33 gongsheng (tribute students), and 80 individuals who entered official careers through examinations. Zizhishan nurtured exceptional talent and saw generations of high-ranking officials. In 1559 (the 38th year of the Jiajing reign), Lin Shizhang, who had studied diligently in Zizhi Cave and often borrowed light from Zizhi Temple to read at night, achieved the remarkable feat of ranking third (tan hua) in the highest imperial examination. Following this, Lin Shizhang was appointed to various prestigious positions including Hanlin Academy editor, Guozijian vice director, Guozijian sacrificial official, Left Vice Minister of Rites, and ultimately Minister of Rites. He earned the deep respect of Emperor Wanli, who bestowed upon him a plaque inscribed with “Loyal and Loving.” This plaque remains today, and the national cultural relic “Tan Hua Archway” in Zhangzhou’s Hong Kong Road still stands as a testament to his legacy. Lin Shizhang’s success further enhanced the prestige of Zizhishan Academy and Zizhi Cave, making them famous across Fujian and Guangdong, and renowned nationwide as sacred sites for scholarly pursuit and cultivation. Scholars and dignitaries flocked here from far and wide.

　　 Next to Zizhi Temple lies Zizhi Cave, topped with a massive rock. The cave entrance faces south, is 6 meters deep and 5 meters wide. A winding stone stairway leads up through a crevice between two rocks on the left side of the cave entrance, opening into a surprisingly spacious interior. Standing atop the cave offers a sweeping view of surrounding mountains and riverbanks. Over centuries, the cave has drawn countless literati and poets, leaving behind a wealth of historical and cultural traces. On the stone wall at the cave entrance is the inscription “Zizhi Cave,” penned in 1549 by Zhangpu’s magistrate Lin Wenxiang. Inside the cave, a stone tablet bears the essay “Record of a Winter Visit to Zizhi Cave” along with poems by Huang Cong. On the right side of Zizhi Temple, there is also a running script inscription reading “Wushi’s landscape is exquisite, Zizhi holds a world apart.” Stone plaques inscribed with calligraphy such as “Deep in White Clouds,” “Boundless Buddhist Teachings,” and “Cherish Time,” left by Ming Dynasty’s Southern Fujian Grand Secretary Huang Daozhou during his lectures at Zizhi Temple, as well as the “Wash the Heart” engraving by Master Hongyi during his visit, have all been preserved. During the Republican era, Liu Jianxu, chairman of Fujian Province, composed a couplet during his visit to praise the people of Wushi for donating funds to resist Japan: “Heaven and earth form a true Buddha realm; rivers and mountains nurture a Zen heart.” These inscriptions, bold and elegant in style, represent a precious cultural legacy left by scholars and dignitaries on Zizhishan.

　　 Zizhishan was not only a place of study for literati like Lin Shizhang, but also home to the Venerable Miaozhi, the only monk in Fujian whose body remains incorrupt after death. Miaozhi, lay name Cai Songcang, once served as abbot of Zizhi Temple. In 1996, at the age of 109 and in ill health, Miaozhi came to reside in the western monks’ quarters at Zizhi Temple. Through care from others and his own self-discipline, he miraculously recovered — a story that became widely celebrated. In 2001, he was named “The Fifth National Century Health Elder,” ranking first in age. Chen Lifu, president of Taiwan’s Confucius-Mencius Society, inscribed the phrase “Transcendent Hero” for him. In 2003, at the age of 116, Miaozhi passed away. Years later, his body remained uncorrupted and was enshrined as a golden statue for public veneration. During his time in Wushi, Miaozhi was compassionate and dedicated to public welfare, actively involved in helping the poor, supporting education, disaster relief, aiding the disabled, adopting abandoned infants, and planting trees. When the poor came to him for treatment, not only did he refuse payment, but he often covered their medical expenses himself. Whether it’s the temples and cliff inscriptions, or the literati, monks, scholars, and officials — all have become calling cards of Zizhishan.

　　 Wushi Zizhishan, drawing the essence of heaven and earth and the spirit of the sun and moon, has attracted sages and deities alike. Countless cultural treasures will surely condense into a radiant pearl, forever shining across the straits.