Houhai

　　Houhai refers to the Shichahai area, which consists of three water bodies: Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Back Lake), and Xihai (West Lake). To distinguish it from the “former three seas” — Beihai (North Sea), Zhonghai (Central Sea), and Nanhai (South Sea) — it is called the “latter three seas.” Houhai stretches from Di’anmen Outer Street in the east to Xinjiekou Street in the west, and from Ping’an Avenue in the south to the North Second Ring Road in the north, covering a total area of 146.7 hectares, including 34 hectares of water surface and 11.5 hectares of green space. This is an ancient water area in Beijing dating back over 700 years to the Yuan Dynasty.

　　　　Houhai is part of the historic Shichahai, a serene area with water, mountain views, and weeping willows along the shore. The residential houses and local residents, along with the surrounding princely mansions and former residences of notable figures, add endless charm with their authentic Beijing flavor and deep historical roots. People come here to hear the crisp chirping of insects in autumn, catch a glimpse of the essence of traditional Beijing courtyard homes, and soak in the imperial ambiance that seems long gone.

　　　　Though called a “sea,” it is actually a large artificial lake, once a private, pristine pool exclusively for royalty. Located in central Beijing, Houhai is just four or five stops from Tiananmen Square and connected by water to the famous Beihai Park. It also faces the distant Jing Shan Park and the Forbidden City. As you stroll along the shore, you might suddenly come across green-tiled walls and red buildings. Beyond those grand, solemn gates, you can only see the dense, towering trees in the courtyards, exuding a sense of mystery. It is said that the waters of Houhai are connected to the dragon veins of the Forbidden City, making it an auspicious site throughout history. As a result, eminent monks built temples here through the ages, while nobles and officials constructed mansions and gardens along the shore, and celebrities moved to the lakeside, initiating the earliest waterfront lifestyle around Houhai. Hence the saying, “Shichahai came before Beijing.”

　　　　Houhai Bars:

　　　　The bars here share a similar vibe — simple vintage furniture, green plants, quirky decorations, and a laid-back atmosphere. The bars around Houhai aren’t very large, and perhaps the limited space helps avoid excessive noise, which is one of the reasons I enjoy hanging out in Houhai’s bars.

　　　　With the moon hanging high and soft, ambient lighting, the occasional mellow sounds of an erhu or pipa drift over from boats on the lake, adding a touch of bohemian charm to the tranquil Houhai. Whispering couples and groups of friends singing along to drinks. The melodious music evokes memories of hometown streams and childhood playmates, or the nights of catching crickets in the summer.

　　　　Houhai is a place perfect for nostalgia. Every visit stirs up a sense of reminiscence. Bringing a girlfriend to experience the romance of Beijing at Houhai is one of the most worthwhile things to do this season.