Xuanwei Field

　　By the Shishui River, Fanwa Village north of Sileng Mountain was historically an area inhabited by the Yi people, situated very close to Nayong County, just separated by the Lajia River. It is a typical highland basin common in remote mountainous regions. The area is surrounded by rolling hills, lush forests, small bridges over flowing streams, and scattered villages, home to ethnic groups including the Bai, Yi, Han, and Chuanqing people.

　　400

　　plus households. There is a large flat field here covering about

　　1300

　　mu, with one particularly large plot measuring

　　87

　　mu. This is Xuanwei Field, one of the scenic and historic sites of Nayong County.

　　The name “Xuanwei” has a historical origin.

　　Today’s Yangjiawan Village in Lezhi Town, Nayong, was known in ancient Yi language as Wozhe. It was the residence of the An family, rulers of the Shuixi Yi region during the Ming and Qing dynasties, located 15 kilometers from Fanwa Village.

　　15

　　kilometers,

　　(

　　Fanwa and Nuoke were the farming villages that supplied provisions to the Xuanwei government at the time

　　)

　　. During the Ming Dynasty, Nayong’s regional commanders-in-chief of the Yi people, An Guirong and An Wanquan, and during the Qing Dynasty, Shuixi’s Xuanwei chief An Kun, all resided here. Legend has it that there once stood a giant tree in front of the Xuanwei government building, towering into the clouds with luxuriant foliage like an umbrella. On sunny days, its shade could reach as far as Fanwa. The oily sandy soil beneath the tree was extremely fertile and suitable for growing rice.

　　In the third year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty

　　(

　　1664

　　AD

　　)

　　, Wu Sangui marched into Shuixi. After fierce battles at Hou’erguan and Qingkoumen, An Kun stationed his troops in Fanwa. To boost morale and demonstrate military might, he ordered his soldiers to form two lines, passing baskets of soil back and forth from Wozhe (where the Xuanwei government was located) to Fanwa. It took them a day and a night to transport the soil and build this large field.

　　At the beginning of constructing the field, there was a huge stone weighing about

　　200,000

　　jin, shaped like a spinning top, which could not be moved. When his subordinates asked An Kun for instructions, he ordered a whip to be prepared. With just one lash, he sent the huge rock flying from Zhujia Xiaochong into the Lajia River. Its remains can still be found today. This stone is called the “Big Pointed Stone.”

　　Big Pointed Stone.

　　After the field was completed, it required planting 1.2 dan of rice seeds. If using cattle to plow, even the strongest water buffalo could only plow three rounds around the field in a day—more would exhaust the animal to death.

　　Back then, the areas inhabited by these ethnic minorities did not yet know how to cultivate rice properly—they simply broadcast the seeds, resulting in poor yields. One summer, after the rice had been planted and the seedlings had just begun to turn green, a water buffalo ran into the middle of the field, rolled around in the water, and damaged the seedlings, creating what became known as an "ox-rolling pond." Later, people transplanted seedlings from surrounding areas to fill in the damaged section. When autumn came, the rice harvested from the ox-rolling pond yielded a significantly larger crop than that from the broadcast-sown fields. From then on, rice cultivation shifted from broadcasting to transplanting. With improved farming techniques and the fertile, oily sandy soil transported into the fields, the large paddies yielded bountiful harvests year after year.

　　Because this field was created by the people of Shuixi transporting mud with horses, later generations called it the "Xuanyi Grand Field." Today, among the farmlands of Fanuo, only this field shares the same mud color as that of Shuixi. As the saying goes: "Ancient relics of Shuixi are passed down through the ages; the glory of the Yi people echoes through the millennia."

　　The Xuanyi Grand Field is not only a historical site of Shuixi but also one of the scenic spots within the three major tourist areas of Nayong.

　　Early in spring, when the field water is clear, the Xuanyi Grand Field resembles a large oval mirror. A gentle breeze stirs the surface, creating ripples. By summer, the seedlings grow into a dense forest. At night, the mountain village and fields exude a serene tranquility.

　　About a hundred meters to the left of the Xuanyi Grand Field stands the Xuanyi Temple. It was built

　　(

　　in the year

　　1665

　　AD

　　)

　　after the suppression of the Shuixi wars and the death of An Kun in the fourth year of the Kangxi reign. The local people, in gratitude for his virtues, pooled funds to construct the temple. Incense has burned there continuously throughout the seasons ever since.

　　The Xuanyi Temple is built in the palatial style, covering

　　10

　　mu of land. Constructed with locally sourced fir wood, it consists of five sections—three central halls flanked by two side wings. The structure has two stories, with upturned eaves and flying rafters. It features blue tiles, red pillars, black walls, and green windows.

　　At the center of the upper story’s roof ridge sits a gourd-shaped ornament, flanked by two large dragons sculpted from lime plaster and painted with colorful pigments. The dragons’ heads are held high, their horns upright. Their serpentine bodies curve, while their tails arch upward to merge into the roof ridge. With bared fangs and claws, they appear vividly lifelike—this design is called “Two Dragons Vying for the Pearl.”

　　The lower story has nine wooden doors and nine window openings, symbolizing the significance of the number nine. The doors are carved with images of the Four Heavenly Kings, Eight Great Guardians, dragons, tigers, lions, and elephants, all exquisitely crafted and strikingly realistic. The windows feature uniform Han-style patterns. In front of the eaves stand a pair of stone lions over a meter tall. Two thick pillars, as wide as a person’s embrace, rise above the lions. These are called “Pillars Supporting the Current.” Coiling dragons painted on the pillars appear full of vitality.

　　On the upper level of the main hall are enshrined Guanyin and the Five Hundred Arhats, along with a large bell and drum. The lower level houses statues of An Kun and his wife, as well as the forty-eight tribal chieftains. In front of the temple gate stand statues of Skanda and guardians wielding golden whips, protecting the sacred site and warding off evil. The temple is home to nearly a hundred deities, some over two meters tall, others no more than a foot, varying in size. All are painted gold and intricately carved with fine craftsmanship.

　　The side wings house monks on the left and provide lodging for wandering monks and Taoists on the right. Temple fairs are held annually in the second, sixth, and ninth months, drawing large crowds of villagers and creating a lively atmosphere.

　　To the right of the main hall is a three-room wooden warehouse covered with tiles, and bamboo groves of bitter bamboo surround the temple. On the left lies the temple garden, planted with various vegetables, exotic flowers, pines, cypresses, phoenix trees, and Bauhinia. White cranes often perch here.

　　Behind the grand field lie the Chair Mountain and Stone Ox Horn, which connect with the “Dragon Head Mountain, Dragon Heart, and Eighteen Arhats” on the lower right, forming part of a magical legend: In ancient times, a monstrous dragon lived in the Wusa Grass Sea atop the Wumeng Mountains. This troublemaking dragon harbored great ambition. Upon hearing that Shuixi’s Chair Mountain area boasted beautiful scenery, fertile land, wealthy people, and abundant resources—a true land of fish and rice—it decided to relocate from the grass sea. This plan was discovered by a little black dragon residing in the Black Dragon Cave behind Fanuo. Fearing the might of the grass sea dragon, the little black dragon sought to befriend it by offering his younger sister, Little Yinglong, as a bride. He immediately summoned his subordinates, the Little Green Dragon and the Little Scabby Dragon, to discuss the idea, which they heartily approved. The little black dragon then ordered them to prepare a tray holding eighteen pearls and three sedan chairs—one to fetch the grass sea dragon, one for himself, and one for his sister, Little Yinglong. Once everything was ready, they set off bearing the pearls and lifting the chairs, sounding ox horns as they went to greet the dragon. Just as they reached Fanuo, the grass sea dragon was slain by the Hidden Dragon Scholar. Its head was severed and lay to one side, its heart fell to the ground, and blood flowed profusely. The little black dragon and his companions were so frightened that they dropped the eighteen pearls, and the three sedan chairs landed where Wangjiazhai Town, Laoyao, and Lüweiba now stand. The Stone Ox Horn was also dropped at Laoyao. His sister, Little Yinglong, devastated by the gruesome death of the grass sea dragon and the collapse of her marriage plans, spent her days in sorrow and grief, standing eternally beside Chair Mountain, as if lamenting or weeping. The names Dragon Head Mountain, Chair Mountain, Maiden Mountain, Eighteen Arhats, Stone Ox Horn, and Fish Cave River all stem from this tale. Today, it is one of Nayong’s scenic spots.

　　If you visit the Xuanyi Grand Field and look around, the surrounding scenery is even more spectacular.

　　Gazing into the distance, mountains such as Doupengqing, Eagle Rock, Desheng Slope, and Jiabanqing naturally form an arc, resembling a vast ocean. Within this ring, undulating peaks look like waves, and the Xuanyi Grand Field seems to float upon them. At dusk, when crimson clouds spread across the sky, the distant arc at the front of the field meets the sky at Mazi Ridge, appearing majestic and towering. The microwave tower atop the peak resembles the “Ruyi Jingu Bang” (As-You-Will Golden Cudgel) of the Monkey King, piercing straight into the heavens.

　　Up close, the county seat

　　(

　　Yongxi Town

　　)

　　is fully visible. The “Animal Mountain Group” in Yongxi Park—including Dragon Mountain, Tiger Mountain, Lion Mountain, Elephant Mountain, Golden Monkey, and Egret—displays a myriad of postures. In golden autumn, the dense fog in Laghe River stretches before the Xuanyi Grand Field like a giant python or dragon, spewing mist and seemingly paying homage to the field.

　　At night, the thousands of lights from Yongxi Town illuminate the entire city, their glow reflecting on the Xuanyi Grand Field as if stars have fallen into it.