Nanxi Fragrant Fish

Nanxi Fragrant Fish

　　Fragrant fish is a unique and precious freshwater fish found in the Nanxi River, typically measuring 15 to 20 centimeters in length, and weighing about two to three taels (approximately 100–150 grams) to half a jin (around 250 grams) per fish.

　　 　　The Nanxi River has long been known for its abundant production of fragrant fish. Records dating back to the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty indicate that fragrant fish were present in the river. According to the Annals of Wenzhou Prefecture from that time, the fish is “three to four inches long, delicious and free from fishy smell. It lives in clear streams and is only available in October, differing slightly from those found in Le.” The Annals of Yandang Mountain also note: “They can be found wherever stream water flows in, including along the Xianglin, Dangxi, Xiatan, and Gumiutan areas where the river flows westward into Yongnanxi.” Commonly called “stream carp” or also known as melon fish, fragrant fish belong to the order Salmoniformes, suborder Osmeroidei, and are named after their distinctive aroma. These fish are elongated and laterally compressed, with small heads and pointed snouts, covered in fine scales. Their backs are grayish-black while their bellies are silvery-white. The flesh is tender, fatty, flavorful, and aromatic, making it a high-quality edible fish and a prized economic species, often hailed as the “king of freshwater fish.”

　　 　　Besides the Nanxi River, fragrant fish are also found in southern Fujian, Taiwan, and Xingshan County in Hubei Province. Legend has it that when Emperor Qianlong toured southern China, he tasted fragrant fish and was so impressed that he designated them as an imperial tribute, to be offered to the royal court every year. Fragrant fish are also found in Bitan, a scenic spot by the Xindian River on the outskirts of Taipei, Taiwan. It is said that these fish were introduced and released by Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) when he led troops to drive out Dutch invaders and develop Taiwan—originally brought from southern Fujian. In memory of Koxinga, later generations called the fish “Guoxing Fish” (the National Surname Fish). A Qing Dynasty poet wrote: “Spring water replenishes Xindian Stream, the stream flows green as glass; the fragrant fish just three inches long are hooked, with wine and citrus one listens to the orioles.”

　　 　　Fishermen along the Nanxi River typically catch fragrant fish by poling bamboo rafts and using trained cormorants. A single bamboo raft with seven or eight cormorants can catch over 10 kilograms of fish. “Misty shoals where cormorant eyes gleam, unruffled waters blend with azure sky; I love most the reeds wet with rain, smoke rising from fishing boats nearby.” This verse by the Song Dynasty poet Lin Bu vividly captures the charm of life on the water. Sometimes, when rural families have guests in the evening, the host simply slings a fish basket over their shoulder, grabs a net, and heads down to the stream—returning soon with one or two kilograms of fresh fish, as easily as picking beans from a garden.

　　 　　Fragrant fish are best prepared through clear stewing or plain simmering. Women farmers along the Nanxi River have a special method for smoking fragrant fish: they slit open the fish’s back, place it on a wire or bamboo rack, and slowly smoke it over a low flame until it turns golden yellow. This produces the renowned dried fragrant fish, famous both at home and abroad. When cooking noodles, rice vermicelli, or soups, just break off some dried fish, sprinkle with chopped scallions, ginger, and a dash of seasoning, and you’ll be greeted with an aromatic dish full of color, aroma, and flavor.

　　 　　The Qing Dynasty poet Ren Shizhen wrote a quatrain: “All along the Nanxi River dwell anglers, willow lanes and clear streams stretch sparsely; best after sunset when wind and rain have passed, half the river’s red trees sell fragrant fish.” In late autumn, when fragrant fish hit the market, visitors to the Nanxi River and nearby eatery owners are all busy competing to buy the fresh catch. Whether under moonlit evenings by paper-windowed tile houses, savoring a rich homemade brew alongside a steamed plate of uniquely flavored fragrant fish, “drinking together with the old man next door, calling across fences to share the joy,” offers a truly special delight.