Qingming Pine Pudding

Qingming Pine Pudding

　　Qingming Pine Pudding

　　In the days leading up to Qingming Festival, every household makes Qingming cakes, known as “pine puddings.” They serve as offerings for tomb sweeping and are also snacks carried when working in the fields or mountains in spring. Some families prepare 20 to 30 kilograms of rice to make enough to last a long time.

　　The main ingredients of pine pudding are rice flour, wild pine herb (蓬草), along with sweet or savory fillings such as white sugar, sesame, shredded pork, and shredded bamboo shoots. Though pine puddings may seem ordinary, their preparation is quite elaborate, requiring households to start preparing well in advance. Even before the Lantern Festival in the first lunar month ends, women and children can be seen gathering pine herbs in the fields. As there aren’t many pine herbs around the urban areas of Yunhe, people gather small amounts to dry for later use. The best kind is the soft pine herb, though some also use mugwort or hemp leaves as substitutes, but these lack the authentic flavor. The gathered pine herbs are spread on bamboo trays, where weeds and tough stems are removed, then washed, boiled, and soaked in water for a while before being repeatedly rinsed and squeezed dry. Separately, high-quality glutinous and non-glutinous rice are ground into flour in the proper ratio. First, some pine herbs are mixed with a portion of the rice flour to form a dough, which is then pounded in a water-powered mortar until the pine herbs are finely ground. Then all the rice flour is added, and the mixture is pounded evenly and finely to form the pine pudding dough, which is light green in color and emits a faint fragrance. Some also pound the mixture in stone mortars; by the 1970s, grinding machines were used instead, saving both effort and time, and producing an even softer and finer dough.

　　Pine puddings come in sweet and savory varieties. High-quality sweet pine puddings have a filling made from black sesame seeds, which are washed, roasted, ground, and mixed with an appropriate amount of white sugar. When eaten, they are soft on the outside, tender on the inside, fragrant with sesame, sweet, and sticky, leaving a lingering aftertaste. Some also use red bean paste as filling, offering a uniquely delicious taste. Savory pine puddings are made with stir-fried shredded pork and fresh spring bamboo shoots, and some households even add dried shrimp strips, resulting in a fragrant, tender, and refreshing taste full of spring vibes.

　　Once the pine pudding dough and fillings are ready, the next step is wrapping the puddings. Though it may seem simple, it actually requires skill. Experienced hands can wrap puddings with thin skins, generous fillings, uniform egg-like shapes, and consistent sizes. Beginners, on the other hand, often end up with thick-skinned, scantily filled puddings that vary in shape and size, and sometimes even burst open. When a family wraps pine puddings, neighboring women often come to help, and many elders and children come to watch the fun. A bamboo tray is placed in the center with the pine pudding dough and fillings, and everyone gathers around it. First, the dough is divided into small, evenly sized portions, which are then kneaded into firm little balls. A small dimple is made in the center of each ball using the index finger, and then both thumbs are inserted into the dimple while the other fingers support the outer skin. The ball is slowly rotated and pinched into a cup-like shape, aiming to make the skin as thin as possible without breaking. Then, a spoonful of filling is added, and the edges of the dough are gathered and flattened to seal it tightly without any gaps. If a crack appears, a small piece of the dough is torn off to patch and smooth it; otherwise, the crust may split during steaming—especially problematic for sweet puddings, where sugar syrup could leak out, affecting both appearance and quality, and making storage difficult. Once the dough is sealed, it is pinched firmly into an oval ball shape, completing the process. The wrapped puddings are placed on clean bamboo leaves, or alternatively on large leaves picked from the mountains. Finally, they are arranged in a steamer basket and steamed over high heat for one to two hours until fully cooked. When the steamer lid is lifted, the dark greenish pine puddings glisten in the rising steam, filling the room with a mouthwatering aroma. After wrapping a batch, hospitable hosts often steam some right away to serve everyone, satisfying the cravings of both elders and children. Whether helpers or onlookers, all are welcome to eat as they please.

　　Nowadays, pine puddings have also made their way to the market. Before Qingming Festival, savvy merchants offer various types of pine puddings, and vegetable markets sell pine herbs, sesame powder, and pre-made pine pudding dough, allowing city dwellers to skip the tedious preparation steps while still enjoying the fun of making pine puddings.