Steamed Grouper

Steamed Grouper

　　Grouper, whether from saltwater or freshwater, is a prized fish. Freshwater grouper is not unique to Pan’an, but Pan’an’s grouper is small, lean, and robust, with an irresistible allure in both initial and lingering flavors.

Pan’an is the source of Zhejiang’s “Four Rivers (Qiantang River, Cao’e River, Ling River, and Ou River),” with towering mountains, deep valleys, and fast-flowing, clear streams. It’s hard to believe, but no matter how high the mountains or how steep the ravines, as long as there is flowing water, you can find groupers. Grouper have beautiful striped patterns, are timid and wary of people, and live in caves. Juvenile fish, playful like mischievous children, often swim freely in shallow waters, but as they grow older, they hide like shy maidens in the deep pools of mountain streams, reluctant to show themselves. Groupers enjoy meaty food and are easily caught using tender rice shrimp or red-headed, white-necked earthworms as bait. They are highly sensitive to their living environment and cannot survive even slight water pollution or if removed from flowing water. Therefore, experienced anglers always catch groupers in nets and then place the nets in flowing, clean water.

Groupers grow extremely slowly—those five years old weigh less than an ounce. Yet, it is precisely this trait that contributes to their deliciousness, as animals that grow slowly or are naturally energetic tend to be gourmet fare, such as turtles, soft-shelled turtles, and crabs. Groupers possess both traits, making them doubly delightful.

Grouper meat is tender and delicately fragrant. Whether braised or steamed, its deliciousness is hard to conceal. My hometown is located upstream of the Hengjin Reservoir on the Dongyang River, where fish is readily available. As a child, our dining table, aside from pickled vegetables and preserved mustard greens, usually featured a plate of braised grouper, as my mother’s cooking skills were limited to braising and nothing else. In my memory, no matter the type of fish, braised was always the best—its appearance particularly enticing, its flavor rich and intense, and its aroma long-lasting. However, in recent years, a trend of steaming has spread from restaurants to homes, becoming a culinary fashion. So, I too tried “steaming” at home and gradually grew to love it.

Upon reflection, steaming might even be simpler than braising—just rub a little salt and lard (or any other oil) on the fish before steaming, and stuff its belly with a spring onion and a few slices of ginger to remove the fishy smell. It’s as if the gentle stream washes away impurities within, and steamed grouper retains its original flavor, with tender meat fibers, sweet and delicate texture, and a trace of the pure freshness of clear water lingering within. Thus, the experience of savoring it is like touching mirror-like still water or feeling the tranquil serenity of green willows brushing the moon.

    There are countless home-style dishes, and the three listed here barely scratch the surface of Pan’an’s home cuisine, because even simple dishes like stir-fried choy sum or braised tofu, with just a touch of creativity, can captivate appetites with extraordinary flavors—it all depends on the ingenuity of the cooks. After tasting all kinds of gourmet food, nothing beats home-style dishes. “No matter how splendid the delicacies of sea and mountain may be, they can’t compare to the daily freshness of home-cooked meals.” Sitting in a small room, typing away, the words I write are all “armchair talk.” To truly appreciate the delights of home-style cooking, why not try your hand at a creative dish?