Changshan Tribute Noodles

Changshan Tribute Noodles

　　Changshan Tribute Noodles are a specialty of Changshan County in Quzhou City, Zhejiang Province. “As white as silver and fragrant, delicate as silk with lingering charm”—this is the vivid description people often use for this traditional and renowned product of Changshan. For thousands of years, Changshan Tribute Noodles have been deeply loved by consumers for their unique “color, shape, aroma, and taste.”

　　Tribute Noodles, also called Suomian, are a traditional specialty snack of Changshan. During the Ming Dynasty, they were offered as tribute to the imperial family. These noodles are entirely handmade, and the entire production process takes about twelve to thirteen hours.

　　Changshan Tribute Noodles are salty. Each household that makes them has its own recipe, so flavors vary from one to another. The ratio of flour to salt also changes with the seasons, making the dough-making process a “secret.” Once the dough is ready, it is cut into strips and coiled in a large wooden basin. The noodle masters then wind the “thick noodles” proportionally onto two sticks—one thick and one thin, one long and one short. When first wound, the noodles are short and thick. After all the “thick noodles” are wound, they are placed in an airtight and lightproof wooden box to maintain moisture. The wound “thick noodles” are then loaded onto the stretching rack in batches and repeatedly pulled and stretched. Throughout the stretching process, the noodle masters rely entirely on their experience to determine when to stretch and when to dry the noodles, ensuring they achieve the optimal length and thinness.

　　Changshan Tribute Noodles are generally made starting in August. The best days for making noodles are sunny ones with ample sunlight. The amount of salt and the intensity of sunlight directly affect the taste of the noodles. Generally, noodles made in the first half of the year tend to be saltier and not as delicious as those made in the second half. Once stretched, the noodles are usually about two meters long and thin enough to thread a needle. When the noodles are nearly dry, they are taken down and await packaging. Tribute Noodles do not keep well and typically should not be stored beyond three months; after that, their taste significantly deteriorates.

　　People in Changshan eat Tribute Noodles during birthdays, baby’s full moon celebrations, house-raising ceremonies, and on the morning of the Lunar New Year’s Day, making them a symbol of celebration. Since the noodles are inherently salty, more water is used when cooking them, and seasonings such as ginger, scallions, soy sauce, and lard are prepared in the bowl. Those who enjoy spicy or sour flavors can adjust the seasonings to taste. Changshan Tribute Noodles are smooth in texture, convenient to eat, and never get tiresome. The best-tasting ones are made in Qiuchuan Town, Changshan County. (Qiuchuan Town borders Jiangxi and is known as the “First Town of Western Zhejiang.”)