Yang's Big Buns

Yang's Big Buns

　　When it comes to the best buns in Huzhou, Yang’s Big Buns is the name that stands out. If you want to eat his buns in the morning, you simply can’t avoid waiting in line for fifteen to twenty minutes. Once you get there, it becomes one of the most curious sights in Huzhou—rows of banknotes and stacks of coins neatly lined up, taking their owners’ places in the queue. I can no longer remember when Yang’s Big Buns first started, but I do recall that on the very first day we moved here over twenty years ago, we had his buns for a meal. Numerous pastry shops have come and gone along Shimo Road, opening and closing their doors, but his remains uniquely popular. Many of his regulars have grown into elderly folks, yet they still queue up regularly. Some are even former teenagers who are now standing in line for their school-going children. And all the while, Old Yang’s back grows more bent with each passing day.

　　Traditional buns are mostly made with fully fermented dough, bursting with juice when freshly steamed—but within ten minutes, all that juice is gone. However, Old Yang’s buns still have juice visible around the edges even half a day later. This is because he uses semi-fermented dough, which, in today’s trendy terms, makes them firmer and more chewy.

　　A neighbor once told me that Old Yang wasn’t originally a bun maker. During the Cultural Revolution, his family background was considered unfavorable, and he ended up in prison. While incarcerated, he was assigned the task of looking after a death row inmate. Old Yang took meticulous care of him, and before the inmate was executed, he passed on the secret recipe for these buns to Old Yang. Later, Yang’s Big Buns appeared on Shimo Road. Whether this story is just a tall tale or not, the unique flavor, low price, and great value are certainly what have kept Yang’s in business. It’s also what has earned him a loyal following among working-class folk and everyday people.