Changshu Beggar's Chicken

Changshu Beggar's Chicken

　　Beggar's Chicken, also known as Yellow Mud Roast Chicken. Legend has it that during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, at the foot of Yushan Mountain in Changshu, a beggar killed a chicken, removed its internal organs, and, having no pot or stove, coated it in mountain mud and roasted it over a fire until cooked. After removing the hardened mud shell, he ate the chicken, which turned out to be extremely delicious. Thus, the dish earned the name "Beggar's Chicken." In the ninth year of the Republic of China (1920), Zhu A'er, a renowned chef at Shanjingyuan Restaurant, selected locally raised “Three-Yellow” (yellow-feathered, yellow-beaked, yellow-footed) hens, along with chicken gizzards, fresh meat, ham, mushrooms, and other fillings. He wrapped the chicken in lotus leaves and improved the mud-coating and cooking techniques. He carefully controlled the heat, and once the chicken was cooked and the shell removed, it retained its original shape. It was then served on a plate drizzled with sesame oil, accompanied by a sweet sesame sauce and chopped scallions for dipping. With its golden crispy skin, fragrant aroma, tender and juicy meat, and delicious stuffing hidden inside, it became famous for its perfect color, aroma, and taste. The dish gained widespread acclaim and was awarded a certificate as a Jiangsu Provincial Commercial Department specialty product in 1983. It was also included in the "Chinese Recipe Collection."

　　The Origin of Beggar’s Chicken

　　“Beggar’s Chicken” originally came from Changshu, Jiangsu. It was a dish made by poor or homeless people who would catch a chicken, wrap it in mud, and then roast it by building a fire around the mud. When the mud heated up, the chicken would cook—but it was considered too rustic for refined dining.

　　There is a legend that Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, while traveling incognito through southern China, once got lost in the wilderness. A beggar, taking pity on him, offered him what he considered a delicacy: “Beggar’s Chicken.” Qianlong, half-starved and exhausted, found the chicken extraordinarily delicious. After eating, he asked its name. The beggar, embarrassed to admit it was called “Beggar’s Chicken,” instead boasted that it was called “Prosperity Chicken.” Qianlong was full of praise for the dish.

　　Only later did the beggar realize that the tramp was actually the Emperor himself. Thanks to the Emperor’s royal endorsement, “Beggar’s Chicken” became known as “Prosperity Chicken.” To this day, it has evolved into a dish worthy of formal banquets and fine dining.