Zhangjiagang Hairtail

Zhangjiagang Hairtail

　　The hairtail, scientifically known as Coilia ectenes, is a migratory fish. Every spring, hairtails swim upstream in schools, creating a seasonal fishing boom. As the farming proverb goes, “Amid spring tides and mist, the hairtail emerges,” making it one of the earliest fresh delicacies of the season. The fish has a long, slender, and thin body resembling a sharp knife, with a silvery-white color. Its flesh is tender, though it contains many fine, hair-like bones. The meat is delicious, rich but not greasy, and has a faint fragrance.

The Song Dynasty scholar Liu Zai once praised it in a poem: “Its hump startles like thunder, its gills red as it leaves the water; seasoned with ginger, cinnamon, and pepper, its aroma wafts even before it’s cooked.” Hairtail noodles and hairtail dumplings offer unique flavors and are widely loved. Hairtail is one of the main aquatic products of Zhangjiagang and can be caught in the Yangtze River waters within the region. Early-season hairtails are mostly male, larger in size and richer in fat, while late-season ones are predominantly female, smaller and leaner. After the Qingming Festival, the flesh becomes tougher and is commonly referred to as “old hairtail.”