Fragrant Lotus Root

Fragrant Lotus Root

　　　　As a unique aquatic vegetable from Nanjing’s polder region—Fragrant Lotus Root—it is famed for being tender, sweet, fragrant, and crisp. Back in the Ming Dynasty, it was even made into the tribute dish “Pounded Lotus Root” and sent to Beijing. Therefore, it holds a significant place in the history of local agricultural produce in Nanjing.

　　Dashi Teahouse derives its name from it.

　　“Fragrant lotus root is only found in Nanjing, and it is very famous nationwide.” Zhu Hongjian, a researcher at the Vegetable Division of the Municipal Agriculture and Forestry Bureau, has studied aquatic vegetables like fragrant lotus root for many years. The “Eight Aquatic Delicacies,” beloved by old Nanjing residents, owe their origins to the unique geographical environment of Nanjing’s suburbs. Zhu Hongjian believes that suburban areas such as Jiangdong, Shazhou, and Yuhuatai have numerous rivers, ponds, and lakes, with bodies of water like Xuanwu Lake and Mochou Lake spanning thousands of acres. The land is fertile, the climate mild, sunlight ample, and rainfall plentiful. Shazhou Weir, the site of the ancient Bailuzhou, features a dense network of rivers with crystal-clear water, which is why the Eight Aquatic Delicacies produced here are exceptionally tender and delicious.

　　Represented by Fragrant Lotus Root, the “Eight Aquatic Delicacies” have had a profound impact on Nanjing. Even Dashi Teahouse on Dashimen Outer Street owes its name to them.

　　Why the name “Fragrant”?

　　As one of Nanjing’s native “Eight Aquatic Delicacies,” Fragrant Lotus Root has a long cultivation history in the city. Many residents may not know that it had already taken root in Nanjing during the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Guo Pu’s “Ode to the River” from the Eastern Jin period mentions “scales covering water chestnuts, lotus roots, and lotus flowers,” and by the Liang Dynasty, the royal family was already presenting it as a delicacy to favored courtiers. But why exactly is this lotus root called “Fragrant”?

　　Experts explain that according to the Jiangning County Annals from the Ming Dynasty, “There are two types of flowers, red and white. The white-flowered ones are superior; when the flowers bloom, the lotus roots are extremely tender and are called ‘flower-under-lotus roots.’” Additionally, the variety itself carries a delicate fragrance, leaving a lingering aroma on the tongue. Thus, later generations mistakenly interpreted this passage from the Jiangning County Annals, and the lotus root has since been called “Fragrant Lotus Root.”

　　By the Ming Dynasty, Fragrant Lotus Root was made into “Pounded Lotus Root” as a tribute dish. Since then, it has appeared frequently in the writings of many scholars and poets. The Bai Men Cookbook praised it: “When made into a soup, it tastes even sweeter and more tender. Whether eaten raw or cooked, it can be said to have a truly unique flavor.”

　　In Search of Nanjing’s Disappearing Local Specialties.

　　“When I was a child, getting to eat some Fragrant Lotus Root every year became a special highlight of our family holidays,” said Mr. Wang, a 51-year-old lifelong Nanjing resident who lives on Jiangdong Road. Speaking about the Fragrant Lotus Root he ate as a child, Mr. Wang seems to recall it vividly, “Every year around the Mid-Autumn Festival, the adults in the family would buy Fragrant Lotus Root and water caltrops. As soon as they were served, we kids would scramble to stuff them into our mouths. Those were the happiest days of our childhood.”

　　Mr. Wang said, “Later on, these things gradually became less available in the markets, and our family rarely ate Fragrant Lotus Root anymore. Recently, I suddenly got a strong craving for it. So I spent several days visiting several farmers’ markets, but couldn’t find any. Could it be that these local specialties from Nanjing are really no longer available?” Mr. Wang expressed his regret over the phone.

　　Besides Fragrant Lotus Root, how many other Nanjing local specialties that once existed in your memory are now gradually fading from daily life? Do these local products bring back memories of your past life...