Jiangsu Zhang Duan

Jiangsu Zhang Duan

　　Produced in Danyang, Jiangsu. It is a full-silk woven fabric, using an 8-harness satin weave as the base with warp pile for patterning. The finished product features a satin ground with raised pile that resembles relief carving and offers elasticity. It evolved from the famous Yuan Dynasty "zhang mian li" sheared pile fabric. Its production process is complex and entirely handmade. The pile warp uses a four-warp binding method, and the weft insertion sequence must follow the order of coarse weft, fine weft, middle weft, and pile rod, using a jacquard wooden loom. The pile warp is individually lifted according to the pattern, while the non-patterned sections remain sunk at the back of the ground and are tied down on the fine weft. The pile warp is drawn vertically through individual tubes such as a pagoda creel and pile warp tubes. During weaving, the weaver and the pattern puller must cooperate closely. Through intricate operations, pile loops are formed, and after reaching a certain length, they are cut with a knife to create the pile. The patterns and colors of this satin are classic and luxurious, divided into two types: round floral and scattered floral. The former includes auspicious designs such as the Eight Immortals, double-line cloud roundels, and peony-patterned lucky flowers; the latter features large-patterned scattered flowers, cross-patterned scattered flowers, four-treasure branch designs, four-immortal longevity motifs, and full-field scattered longevity flowers. The main colors are black, blue, brown, and apricot yellow. The product’s pile stands upright and remains so over time, exuding elegance and nobility. It can be used as high-end robe fabric, cherished by Mongolian and Tibetan ethnic groups, and also serves as decorative material for items such as sofa covers and curtains.