Zhenjiang Preserved Meat
“Zhenjiang Preserved Meat,” also known as “Crystal Preserved Meat” or “Crystal Preserved Pig’s Trotter,” is a famous and renowned dish from Zhenjiang.
It is said that over three hundred years ago, there was a small tavern run by a husband and wife on Jiuhai Street in Zhenjiang. One day, the owner bought four pig trotters planning to eat them in a few days. Worried they might spoil, he decided to preserve them with salt. But what he never expected was that his wife would mistakenly use a bag of saltpeter — which she had bought for making firecrackers for her father — instead of regular salt. It wasn’t until the next day when she went to look for the saltpeter to make firecrackers that she realized the mistake. She quickly uncovered the preserving vat and was surprised to find that the trotters not only hadn’t gone bad, but the meat had become firmer, with a rich red color, and the skin appeared white. To remove the saltpeter taste, he repeatedly soaked the meat in clean water, then blanched it in boiling water and rinsed it again. He then put it into a pot to braise with green onions, ginger, Sichuan peppercorn, cinnamon, fennel, and water. The couple originally intended to cook it at a high temperature to neutralize any toxicity, but to their surprise, over an hour later, a wonderfully enticing aroma wafted from the pot. Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, happened to pass by and was drawn in by the smell. He transformed into a white-haired old man and knocked on the door of the little tavern. As soon as the door opened, the fragrance spilled out onto the street. People gathered to ask about it, and while the wife was scooping out the trotters, she honestly told everyone, “These trotters were accidentally cured with saltpeter—they’re not safe to eat.” But the white-haired old man bought all four trotters on the spot and began eating them right there in the shop. The taste was so exquisite, he couldn’t stop and ended up eating three and a half of them. Only after the old man left did people realize he was Zhang Guolao. When the owner and the others tried the remaining half trotter, they found its flavor incredibly delicious. From then on, the tavern started making “saltpeter meat” using this method, and it quickly gained fame far and wide. Later, considering that the name “saltpeter meat” was unrefined, they changed it to “preserved meat.” Since then, “preserved meat” has been celebrated both in China and abroad.
Zhenjiang Preserved Meat, originally called “Saltpeter Meat,” has an interesting legend. It is said that in ancient times, an apprentice at a tavern on Jiuhai Street in Zhenjiang mistakenly used saltpeter instead of salt to cure pig trotters. After cooking, the meat turned out red with white skin, smooth and translucent, with jelly-like freeze that looked like crystal, giving off a rich aroma and deep flavor. Later, because people found the name “saltpeter meat” unpleasant, it was renamed “Crystal Preserved Meat,” and the name has endured to this day, becoming a traditional delicacy of Zhenjiang.
For over three hundred years, Zhenjiang Crystal Preserved Meat has maintained its fame, renowned throughout the north and south, and has even seen further development. Depending on the different parts of the preserved trotter, it can be sliced into various styles: the tougher meat from the front part of the trotter, cut into lens-shaped slices with tender, soft tendons and a delicious aroma, is called “Spectacle Preserved Meat”; the curved meat near the front trotter, shaped like a jade belt, is called “Jade Belt Hook Preserved Meat”; the meat from the front trotter that includes both fat and lean, fragrant and tender, is called “Triangular Ridge Preserved Meat”; and the lean meat from the back trotter attached to a small bone, called “Lampwick Preserved Meat,” is especially favored by those who love tender, fragrant, and crispy meat.
Although preserved meat is a cold dish, it is unlike ordinary smoked or cured meats. Its lean meat is bright red, cool to the touch yet tender and soft, easily melting in the mouth without getting stuck between the teeth; the fat is thoroughly trimmed, making it non-greasy; the gelatin is transparent and shiny, flexible yet not tough, neither greasy nor heavy. This dish is refreshing and appetizing, elegant in color and delicious in taste, greatly stimulating one’s appetite. When served with shredded ginger and a touch of vinegar, it takes on an even richer flavor. Enjoying it with morning tea—pairing the tea’s aroma with the preserved meat’s richness—after a long indulgence in rich foods, this delicacy refreshes the palate and offers a unique culinary experience, leaving one feeling truly fortunate.
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