Changzhou Combs and Hairpins

Changzhou Combs and Hairpins

Changzhou combs and hairpins are a national intangible cultural heritage.

　　Dating back to the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Changzhou combs and hairpins have a history of over 1,500 years. During the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, high-end combs and hairpins were once presented as tributes to the imperial court and used as royal items, hence earning the reputation of “Imperial Combs and Renowned Hairpins.” They are one of the eight major types of modern hair accessories in China. Their production is intricate and entirely handmade. Generally, from material selection to finished product, there are 72 processes for hairpins and 28 for combs. The production emphasizes strict material selection, fine craftsmanship, and a wide variety of designs, utilizing traditional techniques such as carving, painting, engraving, branding, and inlaying, all of which give them a unique ethnic style. The teeth of the hairpins are made from bamboo grown on the shaded side of hillsides for about four and a half years, also known as “shade-grown bamboo,” which must be free from scratches or blemishes and processed locally. The thin layer between the bamboo skin and flesh (i.e., the bamboo strip) is used for the comb teeth, while the comb frame uses moso bamboo and yellow ox leg bones, and the comb teeth spacers are made from water buffalo ribs, bonded with raw lacquer for reliable durability that won’t come off even when wet. Finally, through polishing and other finishing processes, the teeth become dense and smooth, effective for cleaning and smoothing hair. The wooden combs are made from tough jujube wood, as well as naturally sourced materials like finely grained and smooth yellow rosewood, dogwood, and date wood. Regular use of these wooden combs can make hair glossy, effectively remove dirt, stimulate hair nerves, improve blood circulation, and provide a comfortable feeling.

　　Combs and hairpins are collectively called “zhi” and are one of the eight major types of ancient hair accessories in China. As the saying goes: “Yangzhou rouge, Suzhou flowers, and Changzhou combs and hairpins are the best.” Changzhou combs and hairpins originated in the Jin Dynasty (265–420 AD) and have a history of over 1,600 years. Once treasured as imperial court items, they earned the reputation of “Imperial Combs and Renowned Hairpins.” They are both traditional handicrafts and a “Yanling specialty.”

　　Changzhou combs and hairpins took shape during the Wei and Jin periods and have a history of more than 1,500 years. The “Ode to Changzhou” describes “bamboo shaved into hairpins, with households near the Chaoging Gate all making them.” “Wenhen Piercing the Moon, Hairpin Frames Lit with Lanterns” was one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Western Suburbs in Qing Dynasty Changzhou, showing the historical prosperity of comb and hairpin production. Because the Suzhou Weaving Bureau in the Qing Dynasty would commission a batch of high-end combs and hairpins from Changzhou every year as tributes to the court, they also gained the reputation of “Imperial Combs and Renowned Hairpins.” The ivory comb made in Changzhou, which Li Lianying used to comb the Empress Dowager Cixi’s hair, is still preserved in the Forbidden City in Beijing. The fame of Changzhou combs and hairpins lies in their strict material selection, unique craftsmanship, and exquisite production. In the late Qing and early Republican periods, with the invention of raw lacquer bonding technology and product exports, their reputation spread far overseas. In 1915, they won a silver award at the Panama–Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco, USA, and in 1926, they won a gold award at the International Exposition in Philadelphia, USA.

　　After the liberation, the production of Changzhou combs and hairpins moved toward collectivization and semi-mechanization. While inheriting and promoting traditional skills such as carving, painting, engraving, and branding, they also integrated features of daily necessities, handicrafts, and decorative items, constantly innovating to make combs and hairpins both daily-use crafts rich in ethnic tradition and artistic charm. Among them are “Longevity Combs” that combine artistic appreciation with health benefits, design-appreciation combs featuring the “Four Beauties” and the “Twelve Beauties of Jinling,” souvenir combs shaped like butterflies, dragons, phoenixes, opera masks, and ethnic dolls, as well as exquisitely transparent hairpins resembling jade and delicate as ivory—truly a delightful array of combs and ingeniously crafted hairpins that are hard to put down. In the American movie “Star Struck,” the female protagonist wore a Changzhou comb as a chest ornament, and Indonesian President Sukarno took two Changzhou hairpins back as souvenirs after his visit to China. Media outlets around the world have spoken highly of them, and travelers from all walks of life are particularly fond of them.

　　Over the past century, Changzhou combs and hairpins have participated in numerous international and domestic exhibitions, winning over ten gold and silver awards. These include the 1915 Panama International Peace Exposition Silver Award, the 1926 Philadelphia Exposition Gold Award, the 1981 National Silver Award, the 1991 Second Beijing International Exposition Gold Award, and the 2000 China Tourism Commodities Expo Special Recommended Tourism Product Award. Currently, the annual production of Changzhou combs and hairpins reaches 6.5 million pieces, accounting for three-quarters of the national total, with 70% exported to 27 countries and regions including the United States, the United Kingdom, France, Japan, Australia, and Germany.