Liyang Zha Gan

Liyang Zha Gan

　　Liyang Zha Gan is one of the most traditional dishes of Liyang and also one of the “Three Treasures of Liyang” (the other two being meatballs and spiced bean curd skin rolls). The most authentic version comes from the Shezhu and Pingqiao areas. The auspicious meaning behind “Zha Gan” lies in its homophonic association with “getting an official post.” In the Liyang dialect, “gan” (肝, liver) sounds like “guan” (官, official), and “zha” (扎, to tie) sounds like “zhuo” (着, to achieve). “Zhuo” carries the meaning of “passing with flying colors,” which is very propitious. The main ingredients of Liyang Zha Gan are pork liver and pig small intestines, and depending on taste preferences, it can also include pork belly, fried bean curd, and dried bamboo shoots.

　　During the Song Dynasty, Lu Ziyu, the son of the great poet Lu You, was appointed as the magistrate of Liyang. He admired the scenic beauty of the area and decided to settle down there with his nephew Lu Liji, becoming the founding ancestors of the Lu family in Liyang. In the Hongzhi era of the Ming Dynasty, Lu Zheng, a descendant of the Lu family, was dedicated to studying from a young age. After passing the local and provincial examinations, he was about to travel to the capital for the imperial examination. On the day of departure, his mother was at a loss—what delicious dish could she prepare to see him off? She sold the family’s eggs at the market but only managed to get a small piece of pork belly and two pieces of fried bean curd. Left with no other options, she went to borrow some meat from the neighboring butcher. However, the neighbor’s wife said only a small piece of pork liver and a section of pig intestine were left. With no better solution, Lu’s mother had a clever idea: she used two pieces of fried bean curd to sandwich the pork belly and pork liver, tightly tied them with the pig intestine, and then braised them in a pot. When the dish was uncovered, the “Zha Gan” stood up at both ends like an “official’s hat,” with a strip in the middle resembling a “jade belt.” “Zha Gan” – tying the liver, sounded like “tying an official post” in the local dialect. Lu Zheng ate it and exclaimed, “Delicious, truly a delicacy!”

　　Later, Lu Zheng went to the capital to take the imperial examination and indeed ranked among the top scholars, earning an appointment as a Hanlin academician. The joyful announcement drums spread the fame of this rustic dish, “Zha Gan,” far and wide, and it later became a “New Year’s dish” on ordinary people’s dining tables. In 2010, “Liyang Zha Gan” was successfully recognized as one of China’s Famous Dishes along with Clay Pot Fish Head and Muddled Fresh Snails.