Goubuli

Goubuli

　　Goubuli steamed buns are renowned nationwide for their delicious taste and have gained fame both in China and abroad. The key to their widespread popularity lies in the use of high-quality ingredients and meticulous preparation. For the filling, Goubuli steamed buns feature a unique meat mixture made from fresh pork that is 70% lean and 30% fat. Premium soy sauce is used for flavoring, along with seasonings such as sesame oil, MSG, and minced scallions and ginger. Water is added gradually while stirring to create a juicy, diced-meat filling. The dough for the buns uses semi-fermented “one-bump fat” flour. In terms of craftsmanship, every step—from kneading the dough, dividing it into pieces, rolling out wrappers, stuffing, pinching the buns, steaming, and cooking on the large stove—follows strict standards. The resulting buns have uniformly spaced pleats, with no fewer than fifteen or sixteen folds per bun. Freshly steamed, the buns resemble autumn chrysanthemums about to bloom in the mist, a delightful sight. With one bite, they burst with juice—richly flavorful yet not greasy.

　　The Goubuli steamed bun shop was originally named “Deju Hao” and has a history of over a hundred years. The owner was Gao Guiyu, whose childhood nickname was “Goubuli” (meaning “doesn’t listen to dogs”). Over time, people grew accustomed to calling him by this nickname, and his steamed buns became known as “Goubuli steamed buns,” while the original shop name gradually faded from memory. It is said that when Yuan Shikai served as the Viceroy of Zhili, he presented Goubuli steamed buns as a tribute to Empress Dowager Cixi in Beijing. She loved them so much that after that, the buns gained widespread fame, and branches were opened in many locations. Today, Goubuli steamed buns have gone global, entering markets in many countries and delighting customers worldwide.

　　Dish History

　　In 1831 (the 11th year of the Daoguang reign during the Qing Dynasty), Goubuli’s founder, Gao Guiyu, was born in Xiazhuzhuang, Wuqing County, Zhili (now Wuqing District, Tianjin). His father, who had him at the age of forty, gave him the nickname “Gouzi” (meaning “little dog”) in hopes that he would be as easy to raise as a puppy, praying for his safe upbringing.

　　At the age of 14, Gao Guiyu began working as an apprentice at Liu’s Steamed Food Shop near the South Canal in Tianjin. Thanks to his intelligence, diligence, eagerness to learn, and guidance from his masters, his steamed bun-making skills steadily improved, and he eventually mastered the craft. After completing his three-year apprenticeship, Gao Guiyu opened his own small eatery specializing in steamed buns—“Deju Hao.” Because of his excellent skills, dedication, and refusal to cut corners, the buns he made were soft, fragrant, not greasy, shaped like chrysanthemums, and distinctive in color, aroma, taste, and appearance. Business boomed. As more and more people came to eat his buns, Gao Guiyu became too busy to talk to customers. As a result, patrons jokingly called him “Gouzi selling buns but ignoring people.” Over time, the nickname stuck, and people started calling him “Goubuli,” and his buns became known as “Goubuli steamed buns,” while the original shop name was gradually forgotten.

　　When Gao Guiyu first started “Deju Hao,” he made the bun filling with fresh pork mixed with an appropriate amount of water, along with pork rib broth or tripe broth, plus small-ground sesame oil, specially made soy sauce, minced ginger, minced scallions, and seasonings. The bun wrappers were made from semi-fermented dough. After rolling and dividing the dough, he rolled it into round wrappers about 8.5 cm in diameter, with even thickness. He then stuffed the filling, carefully pinched and folded the edges with his fingers, and skillfully pulled open the pleats to ensure even spacing, resembling white chrysanthemums. Finally, the buns were steamed using high heat.

　　In 1916 (the 5th year of the Republic of China), Gao Guiyu passed away, and his son, Gao Jinming, inherited the business. The following year, a branch was opened on East Avenue in Nanshi. In 1932 (the 21st year of the Republic of China), the original shop at Houjiahou was relocated to the Beida Bridge area. In 1937 (the 26th year of the Republic of China), the original and branch shops were merged and moved to the back entrance of Tianxiang Mall (now Liaoning Road), where a new shop named “Deju Hao” was established. In 1947 (the 36th year of the Republic of China), Gao Jinming’s son, Gao Huanwen, took over the business, running it until it closed in 1952. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, in 1956, the Tianjin government nationalized Goubuli steamed buns and relocated the shop to Shandong Road in Heping District. A branch was also set up in Nanshi Food Street. In 2001, the main Goubuli store was expanded.

　　As Goubuli developed, its offerings continued to innovate while preserving tradition, eventually forming 6 major categories and 98 varieties of buns. Skilled chefs developed new creations using chicken, duck, fish, meat, seafood, seasonal vegetables, wild greens, and mushrooms as ingredients, applying various cooking techniques such as steaming, boiling, baking, and grilling. Examples include “Golden Needle Buns,” “Dragon-Phoenix Buns,” “Mandarin Duck Buns,” “Celery Buns,” “Assorted Buns,” and “Shrimp & Chive Buns.”

　　Historical Culture

　　It is said that when Yuan Shikai was serving as Viceroy of Zhili and training new troops in Tianjin, he presented Goubuli steamed buns as a tribute to Empress Dowager Cixi in Beijing. After tasting them, she was delighted and remarked, “Wild beasts of the mountains, birds of the clouds, cattle and sheep of the land, seafood of the ocean—all cannot compare to the fragrance of Goubuli. Eating them brings longevity.”

　　In 1973, Chairman Mao Zedong once spoke with others about Tianjin delicacies, particularly recalling Goubuli steamed buns. His personal aide, Wu Liandeng, went specially to Tianjin to buy some for the Chairman, who was very pleased after eating them.

　　Gao Guiyu (1831–1916) — Gao Guiyu (circa 1831–1916), nicknamed Gouzi, was from Yangcun, Wuqing County, and the founder of Tianjin’s Goubuli steamed buns. Gao Guiyu’s parents were poor farmers who fled to Tianjin during the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty to escape famine, making a living by picking up scraps. At the age of 15, Gao Guiyu became an apprentice at Liu’s Steamed Food Shop on Houjiaback Street in Tianjin. Though nominally an apprentice, he mostly did odd jobs. By observing and listening, he picked up some steamed bun-making skills. When Liu’s closed down, he set up a small shack on Houjiaback Street and began making and selling buns himself. Gao Guiyu was honest and used genuine ingredients, which made his buns popular.

Deju Hao Steamed Bun Shop

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