Shagou Big Fish Balls
Shagou Big Fish Balls
Located in the heart of the Li-Xia River region in the northwestern part of Xinghua, there is a scenic ancient water town with a history of a thousand years—Shagou. Situated at the junction of five counties and cities, the area is covered with vast reed marshes and interwoven waterways, rich in fish and shrimp. It was historically known as "Golden Shagou." However, what it is most famous for is its local specialty—Shagou Big Fish Balls.
Locals humorously call the fish balls "fish humps" because of their smooth, plump shape. The people of Shagou love eating fish balls not only for their delicious taste but also because they symbolize abundance and reunion, carrying auspicious meanings for having surplus every year and family togetherness.
Shagou fish balls have a golden outer color and snow-white inner meat. They are tender, refreshing, rich yet not greasy, with a unique flavor, making them a premium dish for banquets.
Shagou fish balls are made from fresh white fish or grass carp sourced from Shagou Lake, chosen for their tender meat and high yield. The specific preparation method is as follows: take a live grass carp, slaughter and clean it,
then remove the skin and bones with a knife to extract the lean meat. The meat is minced by hand into a fine paste, then mixed with starch, minced ginger and scallions, and seasonings, stirred repeatedly in a basin by hand. Finally, the cook scoops a spoonful of the fish paste with a spoon into the palm of their left hand near the webbing between the thumb and index finger, squeezes it out into a round shape, and uses another spoon in the right hand to transfer it to a pot of oil. Initially fried over medium-high heat, then simmered over low heat until cooked. Generally, one jin (500g) of grass carp can produce 20–25 fish balls. The ingredient ratios for making the fish balls are very precise—typically, three qian (15g) of salt, 7–7.5 liang (350–375g) of water, and 1.2 liang (60g) of starch per jin of fish meat,
with a small amount of minced ginger and scallions. The ratio of water to salt is especially critical; too much water makes the fish balls tough, while too little leaves them too soft. Too much or too little salt will directly affect the taste and texture of the fish balls. For banquets, freshly fried fish balls are best served hot, boasting excellent color, aroma, and flavor. Leftover fish balls, when reheated in a premium broth along with bamboo slices, water chestnut slices, and wood ear slices, develop a uniquely delicious and rich flavor.
Whenever honored guests visit, hospitable locals always buy a few fresh fish, prepare a batch of fish balls, and serve them with other dishes for a lively feast. Celebrations such as birthdays, weddings, or housewarmings are no exception—in Shagou, it’s said that no banquet is complete without fish balls on the table. Many visitors from out of town who have tasted Shagou fish balls rave about them and often bring some back for their families and friends. Especially during holidays, every household in Shagou makes fish balls, and the rhythmic sound of chopping fish echoes through the streets like a grand percussion concert—a truly beautiful sight in Shagou.
Shagou fish balls have a long history. Legend has it that they originated in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, when a Mr. Fang, a folk chef surnamed Fang, and a Mr. Zhang, a commoner surnamed Zhang, co-founded a restaurant called “Tongchunlou Tavern,” commonly known as Fang Lazi Teahouse. Fang Lazi was skilled in preparing fish dishes, particularly those made with fish paste, and it was on this foundation, through his exceptional culinary skills and innovations, that the preliminary form of fish ball making technique began to take shape.
After Chef Fang, through several generations of chefs inheriting and refining the technique, the art and cooking methods of making Shagou fish balls became increasingly sophisticated, forming a unique production method and ingredient formula. Just after the liberation, a number of fish ball masters emerged, such as the late Jiang Furong, Jiang Baozhen, Wu Shilin, and Sheng Changqing. Each had their own distinctive style. Among them, Jiang Baozhen’s fish balls were the most unique—he worked at the Shagou People's Commune canteen. Once, an official came to Shagou on an inspection and highly praised his fish balls, even inviting him several times to work in Beijing. But he declined, as he was deeply homesick and did not want to leave. New generations of chefs have built upon the traditions of their predecessors and introduced innovations, producing many skilled fish ball makers such as Shen Longyou from New Century Grand Hotel, Zheng Defu from Grain & Trade Tavern, Jiang Junhua from Youth Restaurant, and Wu Yonglin from Yongning Restaurant. Notably, Shen Longyou, a middle-aged chef from New Century Grand Hotel, while inheriting traditional fish ball-making techniques, conducted in-depth research and bold experimentation in fish meat preparation, ingredient mixing, oil usage, and overall craftsmanship, achieving new breakthroughs. He adopted a method of freezing the fish first and then using a machine to mince it, replacing the inefficient traditional manual chopping. He removed the red flesh of the fish, used only scallion whites instead of greens, and fried the balls in pure lard. The resulting fish balls are pure white inside and out, smooth, refreshing, tender yet resilient, deliciously savory, and truly remarkable. His fish balls earned unanimous praise from experts and customers alike, raising the craftsmanship of Shagou fish balls to a whole new level.
As time passes and the world evolves, modern cooking methods have become integrated into daily life. Despite the wide variety and richness of contemporary dishes, fish balls—as a traditional dish—not only have been preserved but continue to be a main feature on Shagou banquet tables. In recent years, with the deepening of modern trade, Shagou fish balls have expanded beyond the town. Migrant workers have brought their fish ball-making expertise far and wide, with banners and signs advertising “Shagou Big Fish Balls” appearing in markets across Xinghua, Taizhou, Yangzhou, the Suzhou-Wuxi-Changzhou area, and even Shanghai. These tiny fish balls have broadened employment opportunities for many and allowed more city dwellers to enjoy this traditional aquatic specialty. At the same time, they have also raised the profile of Shagou, this ancient water town.
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