Nanxiang Xiaolongbao

The xiaolongbao in Shanghai’s Yu Garden come from Nanxiang. A taxi ride from the city center takes about an hour to reach this small town, where a few scattered shops mark the birthplace of Nanxiang Xiaolongbao.

Nanxiang Xiaolongbao in Shanghai has a history of over a hundred years, originating in the tenth year of the Tongzhi reign during the late Qing Dynasty. The original founder was Huang Mingxian, the owner of a dim sum shop called Rihua Xuan. Later, his son opened a branch at the Old City God Temple in Yu Garden — right in the midst of this bustling and lively spot.

Nanxiang Xiaolongbao was initially named “Nanxiang Large Meat Buns,” later called “Nanxiang Big Buns,” then “Guyi Garden Xiaolongbao,” and is now known as “Nanxiang Xiaolongbao.”

Nanxiang Xiaolongbao

　　　　    Nanxiang Xiaolongbao is a traditional and renowned delicacy from Nanxiang Town in the suburbs of Shanghai. Known for its small size and semi-transparent appearance, it is steamed in special small bamboo baskets, hence the name “xiaolongbao” (literally “small basket buns”).

　　  (Shanghai)

　　  The production of Nanxiang Xiaolongbao is mainly centered in Nanxiang Town, Jiading District, and later expanded to the entire Jiading area as well as sites such as Yu Garden’s Old City God Temple in Shanghai. The founder of Nanxiang Xiaolongbao, Huang Mingxian, was born in Nanxiang Town, Jiading District. In his early years, he ran a rice cake shop called Rihua Xuan, selling Nanxiang large steamed buns. Huang would carry the buns to Guyi Garden every day to sell them. The large meat buns became famous for their delicious taste and widespread popularity. Other shop owners soon followed suit, also selling large meat buns in Guyi Garden, which impacted Huang’s business and prevented him from having exclusivity. As a result, he adopted the strategy of “thick filling and thin wrapper, turning large into small.” He used refined flour to make thin wrappers through tight fermentation, filled them with premium minced meat, avoided MSG, and instead used chicken broth to cook pork skin, turning it into aspic to mix into the filling for added flavor. A small amount of finely ground sesame was added to the filling for aroma, and depending on the season, crab roe, shrimp, or bamboo shoots were included for seasonal freshness. Each bun had more than 14 pleats, with ten buns made from one liang (50 grams) of flour. They were as small and translucent as water chestnuts. When served, one could pick up a bun, place it on a small plate, pierce the wrapper, and watch the juice fill the plate — a sign of high quality. Over time, it developed the characteristics of a thin wrapper, fresh juice, tender meat, and a rich filling.

　　  Later, Nanxiang people living in Shanghai invited Huang Mingxian to open a Nanxiang Steamed Bun Shop at the City God Temple in Shanghai and another at Guyi Garden Steamed Bun Shop on Tibet Road, both operating under the name Nanxiang Xiaolongbao. To this day, its fame remains undiminished. Due to the delicious taste and widespread acclaim of Nanxiang Xiaolongbao, other shop owners began to imitate it, making Nanxiang Xiaolongbao visible all over Shanghai and across China. The reputation of Rihua Xuan soared, and everyone rushed to try Nanxiang Xiaolongbao.

　　  In 1963, Guyi Garden resumed the production of Nanxiang Xiaolongbao, recruiting xiaolongbao-making masters from the community and continuously refining the recipe to revive the dish. In June 1981, Nanxiang Xiaolongbao began being produced by Jiading Quick-Frozen Food Co., Ltd. and entered the international market. By the first half of 1984, exports had reached regions including Japan, Hong Kong, Macau, and Canada. Nanxiang Xiaolongbao buns broke into the international market, stepping out of China and gaining worldwide recognition.

　　  Nowadays, nearly every restaurant in Nanxiang Town serves Nanxiang Xiaolongbao, but the Guyi Garden version is considered the best in preserving traditional craftsmanship, with high quality and a strong reputation. Around 7 million buns are produced annually. During tourist seasons and holidays, visitors to Nanxiang flock to Guyi Garden to taste the buns. The restaurant at Guyi Garden often can’t keep up with demand. Nanxiang Xiaolongbao enjoys global fame and has received numerous accolades. In June 2002, it won the “Gold Award at the 4th China Culinary World Cup,” in October 2002, the “Golden Chef Award at the 12th China Chefs Festival,” in November 2002, the “China Famous Dim Sum Title,” in March 2004, the “Gold Award at the Shanghai First Catering Culture Expo,” and in August 2006, the “Shanghai Famous Dim Sum Honor.” They have also opened xiaolongbao specialty restaurants in countries such as Japan, Macau, and Malaysia, training a new generation of culinary talent to ensure that Nanxiang Xiaolongbao continues to innovate and shine forever.