Baoshan Catfish

Baoshan Catfish

　　The famous Baoshan specialty, catfish, is found in the Yangtze River estuary area around Baoshan and Chongming. Because its name is homophonous with “return” (回), it is commonly called “huiyu” (回鱼) among locals, and its scientific name is longsnout catfish. It is also known as river grouper, white pomfret, or fathead fish. The fish has a thick, elongated body with a swollen belly and a laterally compressed tail. Catfish vary in size, typically weighing between 1,500–2,500 grams, though some individuals can reach up to 10 kilograms. Commonly referred to as river grouper, it was praised in a poem by Su Dongpo: “Pink-colored head still boneless, snow-white pufferfish harmless to eat. I ask the heavens and the River God, why not grant us these crystalline-scaled fish?” The catfish combines the delicious taste of both pufferfish and crucian carp, but without the pufferfish’s toxins or the crucian carp’s many bones.

The fish is not only delicious but also has the health benefits of invigorating the spleen, replenishing qi, stimulating appetite, and promoting diuresis. Due to recent environmental changes and excessive fishing, its resources have become nearly depleted, unable to meet consumer demand. The Baoshan Aquatic Technology Extension Station has successfully developed artificial breeding techniques and pond aquaculture. Cage farming can yield 15 kilograms per square meter of fingerlings and 30 kilograms per square meter of market-size fish, while monoculture in ponds can achieve yields of 400–500 kilograms per mu. The signature braised catfish dish at Hexing Restaurant (now Wusong Hotel) in the old town of Wusong was renowned for its bright red color, rich yet non-greasy texture, tender and flaky fish, and delicious flavor.